Sweltering Summer Afternoon at Concurso de Paellas

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The annual Paella Contest at Viña de Liceaga in Valle de Guadalupe was scheduled for Sunday, August 20 – until the threat of Hurricane/Tropical Storm Hilary pushed it back a week. Which was a good thing, as it would have been a veritable mud and wind fest, and not very enjoyable for attendees, paelleros, or winery representatives! Although it was very hot last Sunday, the event took place without a hitch.

The contest brings together about 80 teams, who take their paella very seriously. The event also showcases Baja wineries, with around 150 varietals available for tasting! Paella (as we lovingly refer to it) is the closing event of the multi-week Fiestas de la Vendimia, the grape harvest fest, and has been held for more than 25 years.

As you can see, there are many different versions of paella cooked up over wood fire at the event (no propane allowed!) but most are comprised of various seafood, bits of sausage, mystery meat (chicken? pork?) peas, spices, and of course, the ubiquitous  rice.

This team spotlighted octopus, or pulpo, as the star of their paella!

Jumping on the Barbie bandwagon, Team Barbie’s booth was festooned in pink, and the servers sported pink aprons and chef’s hats.

Opening times for booths are staggered. Before each one opens for attendees, event staff on quads pick up samples of each team’s paella for the judging. And then the feeding frenzy begins!

A close-up of a serving of one of the several paellas we enjoyed.

Always good to see Armando staffing the booth for Lechuza, one of our favorite Valle wineries . . . 

. . . a representative from MD Vinos of Valle de la Grulla, the original wine route of Baja, south of Ensenada . . .

. . . as well as the Madera 5 team.

Live music, too! In both English and Español.

Team EDB at the event. Over the years, we’ve learned to bring a tablecloth to mark our spot, and wine glasses, since sometimes (including this year) glasses are not provided to attendees. Hats also recommended!

The Concurso de Paellas may be the last big Baja food & wine festival of this year; we’ve not heard yet if or when the Valle Food and Wine Fest, usually staged in October, will take place. Stay tuned for updates!

Of course, if no events are on the horizon, we encourage “independent study” of the various Baja wineries.

Como siempre, gracias por los fotos de Bob Gove.

A few of our favorite things . . .

Indeed, there are a lot of upscale dining opportunities now that the world has discovered Baja’s culinary scene, particularly in Valle de Guadalupe. Tasting menus for $100 or more, plus wine pairings, abound. And that’s great. But we’d like to share some of our favorite, low-key (and, far lower cost) venues in Rosarito and environs. Join us!

Roble has been around four or more years, at the northern end of Rosarito, near Bob’s casita. We go for breakfast, and are usually the only non-Latinos. After 9am on weekends, there often is a wait. Menu is huge, and the omelets and crepes are humungous. Did I mention the mimosas? Great value for the $$. There is also a Roble (the original?) in Tijuana.

 

Tito’s is another over-achiever. On the east side of the toll road at the major intersection of Rosarito, (turn off the Boulevard by McDonald’s) you don’t want to order TOO much at Tito’s, because each serving is HUGE! Start small, you can always order more. In the past year or two, Tito’s Rosarito has added a full bar. Which makes us happy.

El Poder is a small seafood stand on the northern end of Rosarito with a few tables outside and in. I am a sucker for their almejas ahumadas, stuffed clams. Their ceviche tostadas (ask for one with shrimp) and fish and shrimp tacos are also great. Bob has been coming here for so long, the family presented him with one of their T-shirts, which he wears proudly.

Our very fave Sunday brunch has gotta be Ruben’s. Paella! Oysters! Clams! Omelets! And bottomless mimosas/champagne, if you choose that option. We’ve been going for years. And we love the talented Maryam Mylak Singer, who easily switches from Mexican pop to opera to leading a line-dance to “Achy Breaky Heart” en Español. Look out: you could be be dancing (cue the Bee Gees).

We’ve only been to La Catrina once, but it was worth getting off the beaten path. From what I understand, the chef/owner used to work at Ollie’s Pizza on the north end of Las Gaviotas. La Catrina is rather buried in Cantamar/Primo Tapia, but once you find its ocean view location, you’ll be pleased.

We have built a tradition of Thanksgiving at Susanna’s. For a few years, we had Thanksgiving dinner in the Valle, but found it was just too far to drive back after a big meal and lots of wine. More recently, we wine taste in the Valle on Thanksgiving day, then head to Susanna’s for Thanksgiving dinner. It’s a lot closer to Bob’s Rosarito casita.

My favorite thing about Thanksgiving at Susanna’s? The appetizer tamal. I look forward to it – every year, it is fabulous. Light and fluffy, not heavy like so many tamales. And Susanna’s does a great job on the rest of the holiday meal, including their upscale cranberry sauce. Susanna’s recently received a well-deserved award from CANIRAC, the Baja restaurant association!

There are two places in San Antonio del Mar that we frequent on our Sunday getaways to the SENTRI line. Cafe Conrado has been there for years. We love sitting outside and we really like their food.

Nonoy’s opened in the same strip center maybe 2 or 3 years ago. I first wandered in to buy a loaf of bread (which was excellent). They had a few tables downstairs and a few up a spiral staircase. However, they have recently expanded and we are so happy for them! We have gotten to know Victor, who I believe is the owner, a tiny bit. Nonoy’s is adding an oyster bar (we shared six creamy oysters from Ensenada on a recent visit).

Bob is intense as he chomps down his salmon “sunny sandwich” at Nonoy’s.

And, then there is Colectivo Surf. We started going to this venue because they had the Aztecs/Padres on TV. But found they feature the best bluefin tuna in the region. Who would have thought?

Pic via A Gringo in Mexico.

Their fish is amazingly fresh and the staff (we sit at the bar) is super friendly. My colleague Scott Koenig of A Gringo in Mexico recently named Colectivo as his top Rosarito culinary destination.

We certainly won’t argue or complain!

 

CLB 2023!

It was a lovely afternoon at Hotel Coral & Marina, just north of Ensenada, last month – the perfect day for Cocina La Baja. Previously held on the expansive seaside patio at Estero Beach Hotel & Resort south of Ensenada, this event is a favorite due to the diversity of offerings. Rather than feature a rather narrow culinary category, such as shellfish or paella, CLB spotlights ALL of Baja’s seafood. Take a look at the pics below!

It’s cool to be educated about what you are about to consume..

Sea urchins, anyone? Although we did not consume any at this event, we have been treated to some very fresh urchins at a secret surf spot in Baja in the past.

Loved seeing the ever-young Sabina Bandera from Ensenada and her colleague at the event.

These seafood-filled “cones” of corn masa won my vote for innovation! From Ensenada’s La Cevicheria.

Salud! Our amigo from Ensenada’s Nordika Cerveceria is dressed to impress.

Great to see Baja’s fabled chefs Javier Plascencia & Drew Deckman serving as judges in CLB’s “Batalla Culinaria.”

Nice work on the kid’s mural!

Our next opportunity for eating & drinking in Baja: the Paella Contest, now rescheduled for Sunday, Aug. 27. Stay tuned to see how we do!

Como siempre, gracias por los fotos de Bob Gove.