Taking Pride in Baja’s Culinary Community

The recent Baja Culinary Fest featured cooking demos, panel discussions and the opportunity to sample tasty tidbits, beer, wine and products from some of Baja’s best. And at this year’s Fest, I witnessed not only a recognition of the exploding Baja culinary scene, but also a true feeling of pride among all, including presenters, exhibitors and attendees.

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Saturday morning’s program at Tijuana’s CECUT was eye-opening. Chef Daniel Ovadia, best known for restaurants Paxia and Nudo Negro in el D.F. (aka Mexico City), plated interesting and lovely dishes (I must try his chicharrón de pescado!) while sharing stories and philosophies (todo en español) with the mostly young, local crowd of about 150 who hung on to his every word. The professional and polished videos he showed documented the popularity of Paxia, as well as the hard work but also incredible camaraderie and pride of his staff. How can a chef so young have built such an empire? Must be his talent, passion and dexterity in blending Pre-Columbian ingredients and recipes with edgy, up-to-date techniques and touches.

Chef Darren Walsh of Lula Bistro in Guadalajara was equally as entertaining. During his “Arte en Plato” demonstration, Chef Darren regaled us with stories of his passions for languages, cultures and cuisine while he created culinary masterpieces that were literally suitable for framing.

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These presentations provided a solid foundation on Mexico’s current culinary scene. But being a cross-border fan, I was most excited to be present for the “Alta California meets Baja California” panel . . . and it did not disappoint.

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Moderator Bill Esparza opened with the thought-provoking comment that for many years, Mexican food in the U.S. has been defined not by Mexicanos, but by Americans, like Diana Kennedy and Rick Bayless. And for many years, Mexico looked to Europe (France, Italy) for high cuisine, rather than embracing its own. The panelists – Ray Garcia of Broken Spanish, Wes Avila of Guerrilla Tacos (both in L.A.) plus Carlos Salgado of Taco Maria and Eduardo Ruiz of Corazon y Miel (both in Orange County) – joined prominent and popular Baja/San Diego Chef Javier Plascencia to discuss their individual mash-ups of cultures/cuisines. All grew up with Mexican/Latino cultures and incorporated those roots, but evolved into a new style without walls or rules, learning from each other and making this cuisine their own. After providing many interesting insights – including tales of patrons with very narrow views and expectations of Mexican food – the panelists closed by agreeing that it’s their responsibility to change perceptions about Mexican cuisine while continuing to promote and provide new dining experiences.

Baja’s been the brunt of negative publicity the past several years, keeping many tourists away. But those of us who never stopped crossing south have witnessed (and been willing participants in) the evolution of Baja’s cutting-edge culinary scene. The 2015 Baja Culinary Fest – well-organized and professionally staged – demonstrated the locals’ recognition of and profound pride in what is now globally renowned. They’ve been in on the ground floor and are now basking in the spotlight. Right on; ¡sí se puede! If you’ve not experienced the Baja culinary revolution – and its counterparts in Alta California – you’re missing out. Now’s the time!

Food, Wine . . . and Film!

Last week brought a double shot of Baja to La Jolla! eatdrinkbaja felt fortunate to attend an event by The Baja Kitchen at PIRCH, the super high-end kitchen-bath-and-more-store at UTC. The well-organized events, hosted by the Mexico Tourism Board-San DiegoConservatorio de la Cultura Gastronómica Mexicana Región Baja California and Rancho La Puerta, are free but fill up VERY quickly.

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Chef Ryan Steyn – originally from South Africa but now at the helm of El Jardin de Adobe at Adobe Guadalupe in Valle de Guadalupe, owner of The CookBook culinary school in Ensenada and more – got the party started, regaling us with tales of a chef’s life in Baja while he prepared a cold salmon dish with oyster sauce, persian cucumber, grape tomatoes, red onion and chile güero from Mexicali, topped with a crisp chicharrón.

IMG_20151001_183246The delicious dish was paired with Herencia, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot & Malbec from Bodegas F. Rubio in the Valle, poured by Francisco Rubio Rangel. Chef Ryan also prepared a risotto with king trumpet mushrooms that I can’t stop thinking about!

IMG_20151001_185417He showed us how to very lightly score the cut side of the mushroom and place it face down on the plancha to bring out the full flavor. The finished dish was paired with F. Rubio’s tasty Malbec, a varietal I haven’t seen often from Baja wineries. Our group was then greeted by Tru Miller of Adobe Guadalupe – the Valle’s pioneer bed & breakfast inn and winery – and Chef Denise Roa of Rancho La Puerta – a place that’s been on my personal bucket list for years.

IMG_20151001_191213Chef Denise fed us her chayote “lasagna;” roasted red & yellow tomatoes; fresh heirloom and black truffle tomatoes from The Ranch; and a gluten-free brownie, all served with Kerubiel and Rafael wines from AG. Quite the feast! Sunday found us at the San Diego Film Festival’s new culinary track, with screenings at Arclight UTC of two chef-related films, King Georges and Cooking Up a Tribute. After each film was a fun panel discussion and Q&A;IMG_0958[1]then we were treated to (YES!) nibbles by French Chef Yannick Alleno, Chef Bernard Guillas of The Marine Room, Chef Aron Schwartz of Marina Kitchen, and Chef Chad White of East Village’s Común & Tijuana’s La Justina, who served up a zesty cobia aguachile.

IMG_0961[1]We were fortunate to have the friendly Fernando Gaxiola of Baja Wine + Food pouring our vino, and an encore appearance by Tru Miller, who brought AG’s Gabriel, Kerubiel and even the mescal, Lucifer. Isn’t it appropriate that all Adobe’s wines are named after archangels . . . and their mescal is named for the devil?

Muchas gracias for photos by Patti Anderson. 

Winning Wine

We were excited to see one of our favorite wines from one of our favorite wineries – Lomita in Valle de Guadalupe – spotlighted as Wine of the Week by Michele Parente in The San Diego Union-Tribune. To quote Michele, Pagano is “made of 100 percent grenache . . . a crimson-colored pleaser with a youthful brightness in the glass and red berries and smoky caramel undertones on the palate.” Pagano is available on this side of the border for $28 at Whole Foods, 3rd Corner in OB and via OWC wines; frankly, I don’t believe we paid more than $18 when we purchased it after tasting at the beautiful Lomita winery. Definitely a worthy wine, and a recommended stop when you are in the Valle!

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Bonus Baja: Michele also reports that the Baja Wine Club will hold its first anniversary tasting Thursday, September 24 (tomorrow!) at Savoie French Italian Eatery at Otay Ranch Center. Sounds like a deal: five wines (from Vena Cava, Legado Sais, Bodegas San Rafael, Bodegas de Santo Tomas & Emeve) for $25 advance/$30 door. And the tasting benefits Dr. Betty Jones’ wonderful Hospital Infantil de las Californias!

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End-of-Summer Baja Blitz!

We in the U.S. may be back to work and school, but the fun in Baja is never-ending. Here’s a quick look at happenings on the eatdrinkbaja radar screen. And I hope you’ll subscribe to receive future posts via email! Click on the “subscribe” button on the “rail” on the right side of my home page. Gracias!!

TJ Beer Fest11th Annual TJ Beer Fest this Friday 9/18 & Saturday 9/19. Caliente Stadium in Tijuana. About $12 in advance, $14 at the door. Organizers claim there will be 200+ beers. An event worth checking out!

Festival de Queso, Vino y Cerveza Artesanal this Saturday 9/19, noon – 9 pm at the Baja California Queso-Vino-FestCenter just north of Rosarito. FREE, but not sure – do you pay for your tastes? Live music! Local productos artesenales! And a good reason to check out the beautiful new Convention Center.

Ensenada International Seafood Festival this Sunday, 9/20, spotlights local restaurants and celebrates the treasures of the sea. We hear this will be across from Riveria del Pacifico on Blvd. Costero. We believe this is free; you pay for individual tastes/drinks, but usually prices are low and portions are grande. Warning: it is listed in San Diego Magazine, but we can’t find anything else about it online. Hope it wasn’t on hold this year due to . . .

Festival Baja Seafood, culminating in the Baja Seafood Trucks Festival Sunday, 9/27 from noon at the Museo el Caracol, which (I believe) is also acrossFestival Baja Seafood Trucks from Riviera del Pacifico on Blvd. Costero in Ensenada. FREE event; betcha gotta to pay for your tastes, but they are usually reasonably priced, delish and substantial.

 

Bajamar Wine Tasting, Saturday 10/3, 3 pm. Sounds like a nice event! Six wines from Nativo in Valle de Guadalupe, with food pairings and live jazz at Bajamar, north of Ensenada. Bajamar Nativo eventLooks like Nativo’s Benjamin Pena (one of our new BFFs) will be pouring and serving as your wine concierge. $50 for the experience.

 

7th Annual Fiesta de la Paella, Folklore y Vino, Sunday 10/4 from 1 pm. This event, in the Jardines del Riviera in Ensenada, looks fun! Paella Fest Oct 4 2015About $10, not sure what’s included. If you check it out, let us know how it goes!

 

Baja Culinary Fest, Thursday 10/ 8 through Sunday 10/11. This annual event toggles between Tijuana and Valle de Guadalupe. This year, looks like most events will be in/around Tijuana’s CECUT. Traditionally there is a public tasting event to close the Fest; Baja-Culinary-Fest-2we’ve been to them @ Encuentro & Vinas la Erre in the Valle, as well as @ CECUT in TJ. We’ll keep you posted as we learn more about this year’s events!

14th Annual Tequila  Expo Tijuana, Wednesday 10/14 – Sunday 10/18 – Right on Revolucion @ 7th, bigger every year and now five days!! A nominal cover charge ($6,tequila-expo-TJ mas o menos) gets you plenty of tastes from dozens of tequilarias. Food, full-sized beverages available for purchase; fun music and entertainment provided, and some of the best people-watching on the west coast.

 

Baja Bits & Bites

We made the rounds of Rosarito on Labor Day weekend. Three great breakfasts: Los Pelicanos, La EstanciaCafe Conrado (in San Antonio del Mar).

Los Pelicanos' chile poblano, mushroom, corn & cheese omeletLos Pelicanos' "toreados" - great on anything! You've got to ask for them.

A La Estancia waterwheelConrado SignVeggie Scramble w/Oaxaca cheese & avocado at Cafe Conrado

Saturday afternoon found us at The Lighthouse in La Misión for a tasting of wines from Valle de Guadalupe’s Nativo, paired with tasty (and beautifully presented) tidbits from Rosarito’s Aki Va! (a restaurant we are not familiar with!)

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George at The LighthouseOfferings from Vinicola Nativo

With Benjamin of Vinicola NativoThe Aki Va chef serves yummy & beautiful polenta

The polenta from Rosarito's Aki Va!Ravioli from Aki Va!

While we waited for the tasting to set up, we ordered some Lighthouse bar botanas – jalapeño poppers (stuffed with yummy tuna) and spicy chicken wings. Always good to chat with Lighthouse proprietor, George! And good to know they are expanding beyond their sports-bar image. Of the four Nativo wines offered, we loved the Cucapah 2013 (Nebbiolo); first runner-up was the Pai-Pai 2012 (Cabernet Sauvignon & Monastrell, which we learned from Nativo’s Benjamin Pena Guerrero is same as Mourvedre). The others: not as good.

Bob @ Calafia (shot from my comfy, shady perch)Ollie's salmon pizza

Yummy!Our neighbors' table @ Ollie's

While Bob surfed Calafia Sunday afternoon, I sauntered up to the restaurant/bar’s balcony to relax with margaritas in the shade, a great live band (covers of Enanitos Verdes & Soda Stereo!) and a wonderful view of the line-up. Later we headed to Ollie’s Pizza, where we petted Ollie (a large, fluffy black dog), chatted with owner Richard, and scarfed down a fantastic pizza with smoked salmon, cream cheese, fresh tomatoes and capers. Perfect summer dinner! GREAT FIND: on our way to drop in on friends Rafael, Shelly & Marie in Rancho Reynoso, we stopped at the Don Pisto in Puerto Nuevo (Lobster Town was going off!) to discover they carry an all-star selection of Baja wines. My new BFF Vera at the store told me they recently amped up their selection.

El Cielo wines @ Don Pisto Puerto NuevoSanto Tomas wines @ Don Pisto Puerto Nuevo

Another successful weekend eating and drinking in Baja. ¡Salud!

Muchas gracias for photos by Bob Gove.

One Fun Sunday: Mi Casa & Nogada Fest

We planned to be a support boat for our fave paddler, Jon Loren, in last weekend’s Catalina Classic. But due to unfortunate last-min problems, Bob’s boat, the “Wave Magnet” was not up for the task. Plan B = BAJA! Headed down early Sunday AM; while Bob surfed, I enjoyed a nice low-tide beach walk. On our way to Tijuana for the Chile en Nogada Fest, we stopped in San Antonio del Mar, where we were immediately attracted to Mi Casa Supper Club, open now for one year.

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I’d heard great things about these folks, Chef Bo Bendana & Dennis – and, I know and respect the fact that they organize the successful sold-out Sabor de Baja @ Rosarito Beach Hotel every August, so it was a no-brainer to visit their spot and enjoy a rooftop brunch.

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We shared a smoked salmon omelet, but the real stars were the insane San Quintin oysters; WOW, what a great example of delicious Baja products and beautiful presentation. Can’t wait to return to Mi Casa Supper Club for dinner!

On to Tijuana’s Avenida Revolucion for chiles en nogada. This is a very traditional dish, often associated with Mexican Independence Day, coming up Sept.16.

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And this was our first visit to Tijuana’s fest, the 6th annual, with free admission (one needs to buy one’s own food & bev). The revered dish consists of a poblano chile, roasted & peeled, stuffed with a mixture of meat (usually beef & pork), fruit & spices, topped with a cream sauce containing ground walnuts and fresh pomegranate seeds.

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More than a dozen competitors vied in the contest to be deemed the best! We enjoyed the onstage demonstrations, and were happy to recognize Scott Koenig of A Gringo in Mexico.com among the judges (we met Scott over mescal tasting @ the Baja Culinary Fest two years ago). The dish is visually stunning, mirroring the colors of the Mexican flag (Que Viva La Patria!) The dutiful judges sampled more than a dozen chiles; we could only handle one, from Tijuana restaurant Cien Anos, which was lovely and delicious.

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Personally, I would have LOVED to have seen some more “breakout” treatments of the nogada, stuffed with chicken, turkey or seafood. Beverage options at the fest abounded: Palomas! Sangria! Wine! Beer! We enjoyed tastings from Mundano winery, who has a vineyard

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in the Valle and (if I understood correctly) will soon offer tastings; we brought home a $17 bottle of their tasty 2012 Nebbiolo. One fun Sunday: we love and highly recommend Baja food fests!

Muchas gracias for photos by Bob Gove.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blues + Paella = A Very Filling Weekend

We survived – even thrived – during our Baja mega-weekend. Our first visit to the annual Baja Blues Fest @ Rosarito Beach Hotel was thoroughly enjoyable. We grooved to Missy Andersen, the Bayou Brothers w/our friend Sista Judy Seid (rubboard player extraordinaire) + Michelle Lundeen, Backwater Blues Band, Tijuana-based Hola Soy Lola and headliner Tommy Castro + The Painkillers. Great set up/sound, not crowded, colorful folks, great friends and reasonably-priced beverages.

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Then to Tapanco south of Rosarito for a lovely dinner with a great bottle of Emeve wine (which we won as part of a fantastic raffle prize at the Blues Fest) followed by a sampling of Tapanco’s secret delicious housemade ice cream: pumpkin, coconut, beet, tres quesos & tequila.

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But hey, the fun didn’t stop there! Sunday: Valle de Guadalupe for the Granddaddy of all Baja food fests: the Vendimia Paella Contest. What a wonderful scene! With 80 paella-making teams, 50 wineries, 2 live music stages + (my estimate) 2,000 attendees, it was well-organized with plenty of food, drink + fun to go around. Paella is, however, very filling and after two to three bowls, it can be a bit difficult to differentiate.

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My favorite team names? Las Ovejitas Disobedientes (the Disobedient Lambs) and La Flaca + El Gordo (the Skinny Gal & Fat Guy). And altho we didn’t sample his paella, always great to see favorite Baja Chef Javier Plasciencia participating. Don’t miss this fantastic festival next year! Thanks to technology, tix were available online in May, but sell out as fast as a Rolling Stones concert. If you’re interested in going next year, let me know soon; wouldn’t it be fun to put an eatdrinkbaja group together?

Muchas gracias for photos by Bob Gove.

Big Baja weekend: Blues Fest & Vendimia Paella Contest

What a weekend we have in store! Saturday is the Baja Blues Fest at Rosarito Beach Hotel, with music from noon to 8pm. Hope we’ll get there for Bayou Brothers w/Michelle Lundeen, and gotta stay for headliner Tommy Castro. Then Sunday we’re down to Viñas de Liceaga in Valle de Guadalupe for the venerable, ever-popular and sold out Fiestas de la Vendimia Paella Contest. It’s been more than 15 years since I last attended; will it be as cool? Maybe even better? 50 wineries, 80 paella-making teams! Check back for the scoop.

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Latin Food Fest – Our Take

We really enjoyed Saturday’s Latin Food Fest Grand Tasting @ Broadway Pier. Plenty of food, drink, music & cooking demos, good value for the $$. Glad to see Tacos Kokopelli & the Baja Pavilion w/La Diferencia, Cien Anos & Volubilis Imports w/wines from Vinas de Garza, Malagon & more. Always good to see Baja represented this side of the border! We loved Chef Ana Saldana’s cooking demo (sopes de camaron con huitlacoche, YUM! & Ana shows so much passion for the current Baja culinary landscape), & the great oysters & jumbo shrimp from Pacific Seafood. Thanks to Northgate Market (I am fortunate to have one in my ‘hood!) for sponsoring the cooking demos, and I look forward to visiting  my new best friends at Tacos Perla in North Park soon!

Muchas gracias for photos by Bob Gove.

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Best Bet: Latin Food Fest

This weekend’s Latin Food Fest is shaping up nicely. The Grande Tasting is Sat. 11am to 3pm @ the Port Pavilion just N of USS Midway. With food & bev included, it’s a good value for the $$, & a very fun scene. PLUS it benefits our local YMCA! Especially looking forward to Kokopelli, La Diferencia, Fortaleza & Pura Vida Tequilas, Lomita, Cava Aragon 126 & Vinisterra. And I hope to interview emcee Ana Saldana, national TV host & Chef of “Historias Sabrosas” on Canal 22, who’s doing  a cooking demo @ 1:10 pm. Will we see you there?

LFF crowd