2023? Ancient history.

We made a couple of quick year-end visits to Valle de Guadalupe. The first took us to a winery we were not familiar with, En’Kanto. It’s off the “back road” as you enter the Valle via La Mision, on an unpaved road heading south that later becomes paved and connects with Hwy. 3 in San Antonio de las Minas.

En’Kanto has reasonably priced food options, including breakfasts. They also have cabanas, which look lovely.

En’Kanto is a low-key, hidden gem with good wines. We shared a regular tasting of four wines for 300 pesos (about $17), including a natural Merlot named WYGIWYG (What You Grow Is What You Get), a 2020 Merlot and Enigma, a delicious blend of Nebbiolo and Merlot.

In our humble opinion, En’Kanto’s wine bottle labels are among the most beautiful in the Valle! Right up there with Torres Alegre’s Cru Garage series of labels by Leonardo Torres.

We had to pull ourselves away from this peaceful refuge to get to our lunch reservation at Santo Tomas’ Villa Torrel, not far from En’Kanto.

Villa Torrel has a beautiful setting, with vistas to the west. Villa Torrel ranked very highly among Mexico restaurants in recent awards recognizing culinary excellence throughout Latin America.

Bob and I shared the yellowtail amberjack raw fish . . . 

. . . and the seafood rice (covered in greens).

Everything was delicious, we had very attentive service but . . . something was missing. In our opinion, our visit to Villa Torrel did not come close to reaching that rustic-meets-high-level-cuisine-vibe that we look forward to in Valle de Guadalupe.

Gracias por fotos de Bob Gove. We’ve been eating and drinking in Baja a lot lately, so stay tuned for more posts coming soon!

Two Festivals (& A Fun New Restaurant)

This Saturday, October 21 is the second annual Vino Sin Fronteras Festival in Tijuana. The afternoon-into-evening event will be held in the parking lot of Caliente Hipódromo from 3 to 10 pm. Boasting the participation of 50 wineries and 30 restaurants, the fest is put on by the wonderful Comite Provino, so it’s very likely to be well-organized (and well-attended). Tickets are $1500 pesos, or about $82-$85, depending on the ever-fluctuating exchange rate.

Chef Diego Hernández, a Baja native who helmed the acclaimed Corazón del Valle restaurant in 2011 until it was shuttered during the pandemic, has launched a new eatery, Parador Mercedes, named in honor of his late grandma. Taking over the former Mesón de Mustafá space in San Antonio de las Minas, Hernández and chef-partner Ana Juncal are focusing on home-style cooking geared toward Valle de Guadalupe-area residents. It’s a welcome departure from the delicious-but-expensive tasting menus at so many Valle eateries; can’t wait to check it out. Parador Mercedes is open from 8am to 4pm daily (closed Thursday) on Highway 3 at Km 93. Read more about Parador Mercedes on Eater San Diego.

If you are heading a bit further south – to Baja California Sur – later this year, try to time your visit with the GastroVino Baja Food & Wine Festival in the lovely town of Todos Santos. This three-day celebration of Baja’s finest eating and drinking looks like fun! And, love the graphics. Although Todos is just an hour north of Cabo San Lucas (on the Pacific side), this “Pueblo Mágico” is a world apart. Save the dates: December 8-10.

Look for a report on our recent foray to three Valle de Guadalupe wineries we had not yet visited, coming soon!

Hot Happenings North of the Border!

Attention Baja lovers! If you can’t head south, here are a few events coming up on this side of the border.

Chef Diego Hernandez of Valle de Guadalupe will be a special guest for the one-year anniversary of Crudo in Little Italy from 2pm until closing tomorrow, Thursday, Sept. 28. Click here for details. 

The 2nd annual Baja Bound Baja Travel and Lifestyle Expo takes place this Saturday, Sept. 30 from 12-5pm at Crown Point Park. Check out more than 100 exhibitors, food & drinks, speakers and live music. Get more information here. 

Mexico Gourmet: A Day of the Dead Food and Spirits Festival is coming Saturday and Sunday, Oct. 21 and 22, from 4-8pm at Fashion Valley. The event will feature chefs from Mexico, tequila, mezcal, beer, parades, and more. Click here for details and a 20% discount on admission. 

Michelin-starred Valle de Guadalupe chef Drew Deckman will finally open a San Diego restaurant! We just can’t get enough of his sustainable, community-based, rustic cuisine. Look for a February 2024 debut in North Park. Find more information by clicking here.  

And us? We’ll be heading to the Valle this weekend on a mission to visit some of the wineries we’ve never made it to in the past (yes, believe it or not, there are a few!) Stay tuned for a report..

Sweltering Summer Afternoon at Concurso de Paellas

(If you experience difficulty viewing the images on your device, please click on https://www.eatdrinkbaja.com/?p=2349)

The annual Paella Contest at Viña de Liceaga in Valle de Guadalupe was scheduled for Sunday, August 20 – until the threat of Hurricane/Tropical Storm Hilary pushed it back a week. Which was a good thing, as it would have been a veritable mud and wind fest, and not very enjoyable for attendees, paelleros, or winery representatives! Although it was very hot last Sunday, the event took place without a hitch.

The contest brings together about 80 teams, who take their paella very seriously. The event also showcases Baja wineries, with around 150 varietals available for tasting! Paella (as we lovingly refer to it) is the closing event of the multi-week Fiestas de la Vendimia, the grape harvest fest, and has been held for more than 25 years.

As you can see, there are many different versions of paella cooked up over wood fire at the event (no propane allowed!) but most are comprised of various seafood, bits of sausage, mystery meat (chicken? pork?) peas, spices, and of course, the ubiquitous  rice.

This team spotlighted octopus, or pulpo, as the star of their paella!

Jumping on the Barbie bandwagon, Team Barbie’s booth was festooned in pink, and the servers sported pink aprons and chef’s hats.

Opening times for booths are staggered. Before each one opens for attendees, event staff on quads pick up samples of each team’s paella for the judging. And then the feeding frenzy begins!

A close-up of a serving of one of the several paellas we enjoyed.

Always good to see Armando staffing the booth for Lechuza, one of our favorite Valle wineries . . . 

. . . a representative from MD Vinos of Valle de la Grulla, the original wine route of Baja, south of Ensenada . . .

. . . as well as the Madera 5 team.

Live music, too! In both English and Español.

Team EDB at the event. Over the years, we’ve learned to bring a tablecloth to mark our spot, and wine glasses, since sometimes (including this year) glasses are not provided to attendees. Hats also recommended!

The Concurso de Paellas may be the last big Baja food & wine festival of this year; we’ve not heard yet if or when the Valle Food and Wine Fest, usually staged in October, will take place. Stay tuned for updates!

Of course, if no events are on the horizon, we encourage “independent study” of the various Baja wineries.

Como siempre, gracias por los fotos de Bob Gove.

CLB 2023!

It was a lovely afternoon at Hotel Coral & Marina, just north of Ensenada, last month – the perfect day for Cocina La Baja. Previously held on the expansive seaside patio at Estero Beach Hotel & Resort south of Ensenada, this event is a favorite due to the diversity of offerings. Rather than feature a rather narrow culinary category, such as shellfish or paella, CLB spotlights ALL of Baja’s seafood. Take a look at the pics below!

It’s cool to be educated about what you are about to consume..

Sea urchins, anyone? Although we did not consume any at this event, we have been treated to some very fresh urchins at a secret surf spot in Baja in the past.

Loved seeing the ever-young Sabina Bandera from Ensenada and her colleague at the event.

These seafood-filled “cones” of corn masa won my vote for innovation! From Ensenada’s La Cevicheria.

Salud! Our amigo from Ensenada’s Nordika Cerveceria is dressed to impress.

Great to see Baja’s fabled chefs Javier Plascencia & Drew Deckman serving as judges in CLB’s “Batalla Culinaria.”

Nice work on the kid’s mural!

Our next opportunity for eating & drinking in Baja: the Paella Contest, now rescheduled for Sunday, Aug. 27. Stay tuned to see how we do!

Como siempre, gracias por los fotos de Bob Gove.

 

Visiting Viñedos en Flor

Last month we made a viaje to Valle de Guadalupe to attend the Fiesta de los Viñedos en Flor. The family-friendly event was held for the first time (we believe) at Decantos Vinicola.

Viñedos differs from many other Baja food and wine festivals: although wine tasting is included in the price (about $40 US), food is not. However, food options were plentiful and prices very reasonable. And kids under 18 were admitted FREE!

There were also activities for the kids and this year, live music! For those of us 18+ there were 80 (count ’em!) Baja wineries pouring tastes. Viñedos also attracts a lot of very fun people. Come along on a visual tour of Viñedos 2023!

A very nattily dressed attendee.

Separated at birth?

Check out this very cute young Spiderwoman.

In case you are wondering, biznaga is a species of barrel cactus. I admit – I did not know myself! Posted prices are in pesos: about 17:$1 at the time of event.

Since Viñedos has a country feel, the food offerings are more rustic than some Baja festivals.

Always good to run into Natalia Badan of Vinicola Mogor Badan; great lady, wonderful wine. Natalia has chaired Viñedos in the past.

What a treat to spend time visiting with Tru Miller, owner of Adobe Guadalupe, a fantastic winery and one of the Valle’s first (perhaps the very first?) B&Bs. Tru is a classy lady, another of the Valle’s matriarchs.

We hope to see you at next year’s Viñedos en Flor!

Gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.

Conchas: An Oyster Lover’s Paradise

OK, the real name is Festival de Las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo. But those of us who have been attending for years just refer to it as Conchas. Held every spring by the marina at the lovely Hotel Coral north of Ensenada, Conchas is the unofficial start of the annual Baja wine and food fest season. And here we go!

Comite Provino does a great job staging their events.

In theory, the event showcases Baja’s oysters, clams, mussels and abalone. In reality, there are a LOT of oysters. Not that we’re complaining!

Gotta love an oyster-filled wine barrel!

Great to see Drew Deckman of the Valle’s Deckman’s en el Mogor at Conchas.

Conchas attracts a crowd, but we’ve never found it unmanageable. Just grab a table early!

The Three Amigos – great participants in Team EatDrinkBaja at Conchas 2023.

Look for a post soon about our visit to the Festival de los Vinedos en Flor earlier this month. And we look forward to Cocina La Baja on July 15 and the big Concurso de Paellas on August 20! Tickets for both are now available.

Otra vez, gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.

Lunario: Over the Moon (Valle Girls’ Trip, Part 2)

My good friend Patti and I packed a lot of fun into our recent two-night stay in Valle de Guadalupe. A highlight was our dinner at Lunario.

I’d visited the Lomita Winery several times over the years; as a matter of fact, learning about Lomita when they participated in a Baja-related event at Mingei International Museum eight or nine years ago helped inspire me to launch this blog. Lomita opened my eyes, made me realize there was more to the Valle than long-time wineries I was familiar with: LA Cetto, Pedro Domecq, Santo Tomas, Monte Xanic and Chateau Camou.

Nothing against the longer-established wineries, of course. But getting acquainted with Lomita back then made me wonder .. . what the heck is going on down there?

Since, the Valle has exploded. And like many wineries, Lomita has added dining options. After hearing great things about Chef Sheyla Alvarado, I wanted to check out her most recent Valle venture.

Lunario is tucked a short walk across from the Lomita tasting room. Lunario is a small room, and reservations are important. 

Patti and I had opted for the six-course tasting menu, with pairings (why not?). We had fantastic attention from our server, the sommelier, and others. 

Here’s an overview of the plates we enjoyed at Lunario. Try not to drool on your phone or keyboard.

Amuse: A tease as to what is to come. Oysters, pistachios & sheep cheese. A delicious prelude. Yums.

Course #1: Requeson, Tomato & Carrots. Paired with a 2022 Chassels from Cavas del Mogor. I believe more pistachios were involved here.

Course #2: Crudo with Cantaloupe Seed Aguachile, paired with a Lomita 2020 Chardonnay. Fresh and delicious! 

Third course-:”Lobina,” sea bass zarandeado. A very upscale version of what you might order at a beachside shack in Popotla, just south of Rosarito. Deilicious. This was paired with a Mantis Wheat Orange beer from Ensenada’s Aguamala, which we thought was a bit weird (we prefer wine!)

On to the next!  A plantain tamal with black recado, paired with a 2018 Cavas del Mogor Pirineo .I’ve encountered many tamales in my life, from Baja to Oaxaca, but this was the most interesting!  Yummy, but in a strange black package. But I guess that was the idea!

Since neither Patti nor I consume red meat or pork, sticking to veggies, seafood and poultry, Lunario adapted our tasting to replace goat with a wonderful mushroom dish. Much appreciated! Paired with a 2018 Cabernet from Finca La Carrodilla, Lomita’s sister winery.
Coming down to the end of our culinary adventure at Lunario, we enjoyed a pre-dessert of mango, vanilla & kumquat.
The REAL dessert was composed of raw cream, strawberries and peas (an ingredient one rarely encounters in a dessert). Accompanied by a Lomita wine with bubbles, poured out of a can. Fabulous!
As you can see, several of the dishes were served on base layers or “puddles.” Which seemed a bit repetitive. But, we enjoyed it all and did not complain! Lunario is definitely worth your visit.
 
Sunday we checked out of Casa Mayoral and headed north. My plan was to do one final tasting at Hilo Negro before taking the back road out of the Valle through La Mision. However, rather than staying on the paved roads, I bravely took a short cut on the dirt road that passes Laja and Finca Altozano.
 
Note to self and others – do not attempt this road in the rainy season in a Nissan Versa hatchback. Charging a significant mud bog, my little car became totally stuck, not able to move forward or backward. Yikes!
 
I’ve been traveling throughout Baja for a long, long time. I’ve always treated people with respect and have never been fazed by stories of bad guys/banditos. And I know, especially when one is off road, folks who travel in Baja look out for others. 
 
Patti and I had several concerned folks come by. The first couple, Latinos/as in a truck with California plates, called in Spanish for a tow truck, but were told none were available that morning. But an SUV packed with family also noticed our distress. The driver rolled up his pant legs, hooked up a tow strap, assured me that it would be easy to yank my little car out of the mud bog, and voila! We were free and, needless to say, went back to the paved roads to get back to SD. We tried, but the family refused payment. Thank goodness for karma!
 
I wish I had pics of this ordeal, but since we were in eight or more very yucky inches of mud, it was not pleasant. I was focused on getting out and not focused on posting on social media. The best I can do is this pic of my extremely muddy black leather boots as we stopped on our way back to SD. Not sure if my boots will ever be the same!
 
I am VERY grateful for the family who stopped and yanked us out, as well as for the help of Patti, who played a significant role in getting us out of the muck. 
 
On to the next adventure!
 
 
 

Finally! Another Valle Girls’ Trip (Part 1)

Pre-COVID, my friend Patti and I made semi-regular gals’ trips to Valle de Guadalupe. We resurrected that tradition earlier this year, booking a cabin at Casa Mayoral, with one bed on the ground floor, another in the loft. We’ve stayed at CM twice before, but never in this casita/cabin. 

Cabin #1 at Casa Mayoral.

We love the ambiance and staff at CM. It’s south of the Ensenada-Tecate highway, far enough away to feel secluded and enjoy the nature, but with relatively quick access to the main highway. 

View from our little balcony at Casa Mayoral.

After checking in, our first stop was one of our favorites – Vinos Lechuza, which has added food options since my last visit. Fantastic to see Armando, who has become a highly valued employee at Lechuza; I first met Armando more than four years ago. Patti and I enjoyed a great wine tasting and shared a fabulous plate of almejas ahumadas (grilled clams smothered in cheese, veggies and herbs).

Yummy almejas (clams) at Lechuza!

Then it was off to our reservation at the Bruma Wine Garden. I’ve been to Bruma’s Fauna for their tasting menu, maybe four years ago; it was fantastic, and I really admire Chef David Castro Hussong.

Bruma’s Wine Garden is down below and north of Fauna, Bruma’s signature restaurant, and as you might expect, is outdoors, but under a lovely canopy of trees. I had heard positive reviews of their pizzas, so Patti and I shared one, along with a bottle of wine, and a very chocolaty dessert. It was a fine meal, but with so many Valle options, would I return? Not sure.

Bruma wine and fluffy pizza.

Ambiance at Bruma Wine Garden.

After finding our way back to CM on a dark, drizzly night with lots of traffic on the highway, we settled in for the night. I insisted on taking the loft bed, and it was a bit of a challenge negotiating the ladder/staircase to get up and down. But somehow I managed not to fall off. Whew!

I considered the access to our cabin’s loft the stairway to heaven.

Saturday morning we enjoyed an included breakfast at CM and received some helpful updates about the Valle from staff. We were saddened to learn that the long-standing Farmers’ Market at Mogor Badan went by the wayside during the pandemic and has not been revived since. 

We heeded a recommendation to visit the Misiones de California winery, which involved taking an unmarked road north of the highway in San Antonio de Las Minas. Once we finally found and proceeded up that dirt road, we did spot helpful signage. And, we found it! A rather hidden gem.

We did not have reservations (heck, we didn’t even know if we could find the place!) but our host Addie set us up for a great tasting even though she was awaiting a reservation that was running late. Once they – another pair of gal pals with a driver – arrived, happily we all merged together. This is not a place where you would expect wine tour buses to show up; it’s off the beaten Valle track. Patti and I especially enjoyed their Nebbiolo, and we promptly bought a bottle for our cabin. 

Entering the unassuming but wonderful Vinicola Misiones de California.

With our host and fellow wine fans at Misiones de Californias.

We stopped at Los Globos in San Antonio de las Minas for rosemary cheese and a bunch of other local products. On the way back to CM, I introduced Patti to Vinedos Don Tomas for another wine tasting. Don Tomas provides a very nice cheese/tomato/olive tray with their tasting, a super nice touch. Then it was back to CM to get ready for the highlight of our wine and culinary journey: a tasting menu dinner at Lunario.

Stay tuned for Part 2 with detailed info about our tasting experience, and our other rather crazy recent Valle adventures, coming soon!

 

 

Market at Mogor Badan went by the wayside during the pandemic. 

 

 

Two more Baja Festivals Announced!

The venerable Rosarito Beach Hotel is turning 99 this year! We are all invited to attend the 99th Year Gala Celebration on Saturday June17 at 5 pm in the hotel gardens. There will be a concert by Beatles tribute band The Revolution. Food and beverages will be available, but apparently are not included in the admission which is 400 pesos in advance (about $20). Tickets can be purchased by calling 1-800-343-8582.

This photo is from Sabor de Baja 2016, also held in the gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel.

We were excited to learn that Festival Cocina La Baja will return on Saturday, July 15. Formerly held at the Estero Beach Hotel south of Ensenada, this year is moving to the Hotel Coral & Marina just north of Ensenada. A great event with a bigger variety of offerings than some of the other festivals. Apparently tix are not yet on sale, but you can follow CLB at https://www.facebook.com/cocinalabaja.

Attendees enoying Cocina La Baja 2022.

There are indications that the Baja Blues Fest might return to the gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel in mid-August, and we’ve heard the Valle Food & Wine Fest will be back this fall. No definitive dates for either, and no word yet on the potential return of  the classy all-white party, Sabor de Baja.

Stay tuned!

Gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.