Tag Archives: Ensenada

New Friends, New (& Fave) Wineries

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It’s interesting how folks who love Baja – and especially those who enjoy eating and drinking in Baja – connect. I learned about Michael Gardiner’s book, “Cali-Baja Cuisine” in December.

After giving it a once over online, I promptly purchased a copy for Bob’s daughter and son-in-law, who were raised in our cross-border region but are now raising their own family in Washington, D.C. Through the magic of social media, I connected with Michael and re-connected with the book’s very talented photographer, Cintia Soto. Before I knew it, Bob and I were invited to visit Michael and his lovely wife Nancy at their Baja casita, and shortly thereafter we all piled into my little NIssan Versa hatchback (named Viva, FYI), for a visit to Valle de Guadalupe.

We began our Valle adventure at Rondo del Valle. Bob and I had met the owner, Alberto, and sampled Rondo’s wines at events on both sides of the border, but had never made the pilgrimage to their facility. It’s next to King & Queen Cantina (am I the only one who thinks this place is a strange addition to the Valle?)

Check out this beautiful table at Rondo. Be careful, though, where you place your wine glass!

We shared a couple of regular tastings, including Rondo’s Candor (Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier) and Travesi (60/30/10 Merlot/Cab/Malbec). Rondo’s neighbor is Rancho El Parral, which has four rooms and looks like a lovely lodging option. Personally I prefer to stay closer to the center of the Valle. But, that’s just me . . .

Casa Magoni, our next stop, has remodeled since we last visited pre-pandemic. We opted for a tasting of Magoni’s reds under the boughs of a beautiful old oak tree.

We sampled Magoni’s Sangiovese/Cab; their Origen 43, a “Super Toscano” blend of Sangiovese/Aglianico/Canaiolo/Montepulciano (with, as they put it, “a small contribution of Cab”); their Merlot/Malbec; and finally, their lovely Nebbiolo, which is reputed to have been derived from a clone brought from Italy and, over time, adapted to the Valle’s climactic conditions.

Next up: lunch next door at Finca Altozano. It’s been a while since we’d dined at Finca (there are now SO many options in the Valle!), but they did not disappoint.

We had the very fresh clams (almejas reinas) and an octopus dish . . .

. . . while Michael and Nancy went big, ordering the shrimp zarandeado and the local quail grilled over oak. We shared a tasty bottle of Nebbiolo from neighbor Henri Lurton.

One last stop on our way back toward Rosarito: Hilo Negro, where we enjoyed a glass of their award-winning Zig Zag, a delicious blend of 70/30 Nebbiolo/Syrah. I DO like their wines. A fabulous way to cap off a lovely day!

I had, of course, by this time purchased my own copy of Michael’s “Cali-Baja Cuisine,” which he graciously signed. I’ve been working my way through the yummy recipes, and I heartily encourage you to do the same!

Como siempre, gracias por los fotos de Bob Gove. Stay tuned for a report on our most recent Valle adventures, coming soon!

Two Festivals (& A Fun New Restaurant)

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This Saturday, October 21 is the second annual Vino Sin Fronteras Festival in Tijuana. The afternoon-into-evening event will be held in the parking lot of Caliente Hipódromo from 3 to 10 pm. Boasting the participation of 50 wineries and 30 restaurants, the fest is put on by the wonderful Comite Provino, so it’s very likely to be well-organized (and well-attended). Tickets are $1500 pesos, or about $82-$85, depending on the ever-fluctuating exchange rate.

Chef Diego Hernández, a Baja native who helmed the acclaimed Corazón del Valle restaurant in 2011 until it was shuttered during the pandemic, has launched a new eatery, Parador Mercedes, named in honor of his late grandma. Taking over the former Mesón de Mustafá space in San Antonio de las Minas, Hernández and chef-partner Ana Juncal are focusing on home-style cooking geared toward Valle de Guadalupe-area residents. It’s a welcome departure from the delicious-but-expensive tasting menus at so many Valle eateries; can’t wait to check it out. Parador Mercedes is open from 8am to 4pm daily (closed Thursday) on Highway 3 at Km 93. Read more about Parador Mercedes on Eater San Diego.

If you are heading a bit further south – to Baja California Sur – later this year, try to time your visit with the GastroVino Baja Food & Wine Festival in the lovely town of Todos Santos. This three-day celebration of Baja’s finest eating and drinking looks like fun! And, love the graphics. Although Todos is just an hour north of Cabo San Lucas (on the Pacific side), this “Pueblo Mágico” is a world apart. Save the dates: December 8-10.

Look for a report on our recent foray to three Valle de Guadalupe wineries we had not yet visited, coming soon!

Sweltering Summer Afternoon at Concurso de Paellas

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(If you experience difficulty viewing the images on your device, please click on https://www.eatdrinkbaja.com/?p=2349)

The annual Paella Contest at Viña de Liceaga in Valle de Guadalupe was scheduled for Sunday, August 20 – until the threat of Hurricane/Tropical Storm Hilary pushed it back a week. Which was a good thing, as it would have been a veritable mud and wind fest, and not very enjoyable for attendees, paelleros, or winery representatives! Although it was very hot last Sunday, the event took place without a hitch.

The contest brings together about 80 teams, who take their paella very seriously. The event also showcases Baja wineries, with around 150 varietals available for tasting! Paella (as we lovingly refer to it) is the closing event of the multi-week Fiestas de la Vendimia, the grape harvest fest, and has been held for more than 25 years.

As you can see, there are many different versions of paella cooked up over wood fire at the event (no propane allowed!) but most are comprised of various seafood, bits of sausage, mystery meat (chicken? pork?) peas, spices, and of course, the ubiquitous  rice.

This team spotlighted octopus, or pulpo, as the star of their paella!

Jumping on the Barbie bandwagon, Team Barbie’s booth was festooned in pink, and the servers sported pink aprons and chef’s hats.

Opening times for booths are staggered. Before each one opens for attendees, event staff on quads pick up samples of each team’s paella for the judging. And then the feeding frenzy begins!

A close-up of a serving of one of the several paellas we enjoyed.

Always good to see Armando staffing the booth for Lechuza, one of our favorite Valle wineries . . . 

. . . a representative from MD Vinos of Valle de la Grulla, the original wine route of Baja, south of Ensenada . . .

. . . as well as the Madera 5 team.

Live music, too! In both English and Español.

Team EDB at the event. Over the years, we’ve learned to bring a tablecloth to mark our spot, and wine glasses, since sometimes (including this year) glasses are not provided to attendees. Hats also recommended!

The Concurso de Paellas may be the last big Baja food & wine festival of this year; we’ve not heard yet if or when the Valle Food and Wine Fest, usually staged in October, will take place. Stay tuned for updates!

Of course, if no events are on the horizon, we encourage “independent study” of the various Baja wineries.

Como siempre, gracias por los fotos de Bob Gove.

CLB 2023!

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It was a lovely afternoon at Hotel Coral & Marina, just north of Ensenada, last month – the perfect day for Cocina La Baja. Previously held on the expansive seaside patio at Estero Beach Hotel & Resort south of Ensenada, this event is a favorite due to the diversity of offerings. Rather than feature a rather narrow culinary category, such as shellfish or paella, CLB spotlights ALL of Baja’s seafood. Take a look at the pics below!

It’s cool to be educated about what you are about to consume..

Sea urchins, anyone? Although we did not consume any at this event, we have been treated to some very fresh urchins at a secret surf spot in Baja in the past.

Loved seeing the ever-young Sabina Bandera from Ensenada and her colleague at the event.

These seafood-filled “cones” of corn masa won my vote for innovation! From Ensenada’s La Cevicheria.

Salud! Our amigo from Ensenada’s Nordika Cerveceria is dressed to impress.

Great to see Baja’s fabled chefs Javier Plascencia & Drew Deckman serving as judges in CLB’s “Batalla Culinaria.”

Nice work on the kid’s mural!

Our next opportunity for eating & drinking in Baja: the Paella Contest, now rescheduled for Sunday, Aug. 27. Stay tuned to see how we do!

Como siempre, gracias por los fotos de Bob Gove.

 

Conchas: An Oyster Lover’s Paradise

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OK, the real name is Festival de Las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo. But those of us who have been attending for years just refer to it as Conchas. Held every spring by the marina at the lovely Hotel Coral north of Ensenada, Conchas is the unofficial start of the annual Baja wine and food fest season. And here we go!

Comite Provino does a great job staging their events.

In theory, the event showcases Baja’s oysters, clams, mussels and abalone. In reality, there are a LOT of oysters. Not that we’re complaining!

Gotta love an oyster-filled wine barrel!

Great to see Drew Deckman of the Valle’s Deckman’s en el Mogor at Conchas.

Conchas attracts a crowd, but we’ve never found it unmanageable. Just grab a table early!

The Three Amigos – great participants in Team EatDrinkBaja at Conchas 2023.

Look for a post soon about our visit to the Festival de los Vinedos en Flor earlier this month. And we look forward to Cocina La Baja on July 15 and the big Concurso de Paellas on August 20! Tickets for both are now available.

Otra vez, gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.

Lunario: Over the Moon (Valle Girls’ Trip, Part 2)

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My good friend Patti and I packed a lot of fun into our recent two-night stay in Valle de Guadalupe. A highlight was our dinner at Lunario.

I’d visited the Lomita Winery several times over the years; as a matter of fact, learning about Lomita when they participated in a Baja-related event at Mingei International Museum eight or nine years ago helped inspire me to launch this blog. Lomita opened my eyes, made me realize there was more to the Valle than long-time wineries I was familiar with: LA Cetto, Pedro Domecq, Santo Tomas, Monte Xanic and Chateau Camou.

Nothing against the longer-established wineries, of course. But getting acquainted with Lomita back then made me wonder .. . what the heck is going on down there?

Since, the Valle has exploded. And like many wineries, Lomita has added dining options. After hearing great things about Chef Sheyla Alvarado, I wanted to check out her most recent Valle venture.

Lunario is tucked a short walk across from the Lomita tasting room. Lunario is a small room, and reservations are important. 

Patti and I had opted for the six-course tasting menu, with pairings (why not?). We had fantastic attention from our server, the sommelier, and others. 

Here’s an overview of the plates we enjoyed at Lunario. Try not to drool on your phone or keyboard.

Amuse: A tease as to what is to come. Oysters, pistachios & sheep cheese. A delicious prelude. Yums.

Course #1: Requeson, Tomato & Carrots. Paired with a 2022 Chassels from Cavas del Mogor. I believe more pistachios were involved here.

Course #2: Crudo with Cantaloupe Seed Aguachile, paired with a Lomita 2020 Chardonnay. Fresh and delicious! 

Third course-:”Lobina,” sea bass zarandeado. A very upscale version of what you might order at a beachside shack in Popotla, just south of Rosarito. Deilicious. This was paired with a Mantis Wheat Orange beer from Ensenada’s Aguamala, which we thought was a bit weird (we prefer wine!) . 

On to the next!  A plantain tamal with black recado, paired with a 2018 Cavas del Mogor Pirineo .I’ve encountered many tamales in my life, from Baja to Oaxaca, but this was the most interesting!  Yummy, but in a strange black package. But I guess that was the idea!

Since neither Patti nor I consume red meat or pork, sticking to veggies, seafood and poultry, Lunario adapted our tasting to replace goat with a wonderful mushroom dish. Much appreciated! Paired with a 2018 Cabernet from Finca La Carrodilla, Lomita’s sister winery.
Coming down to the end of our culinary adventure at Lunario, we enjoyed a pre-dessert of mango, vanilla & kumquat.
The REAL dessert was composed of raw cream, strawberries and peas (an ingredient one rarely encounters in a dessert). Accompanied by a Lomita wine with bubbles, poured out of a can. Fabulous!
As you can see, several of the dishes were served on base layers or “puddles.” Which seemed a bit repetitive. But, we enjoyed it all and did not complain! Lunario is definitely worth your visit.
 
Sunday we checked out of Casa Mayoral and headed north. My plan was to do one final tasting at Hilo Negro before taking the back road out of the Valle through La Mision. However, rather than staying on the paved roads, I bravely took a short cut on the dirt road that passes Laja and Finca Altozano.
 
Note to self and others – do not attempt this road in the rainy season in a Nissan Versa hatchback. Charging a significant mud bog, my little car became totally stuck, not able to move forward or backward. Yikes!
 
I’ve been traveling throughout Baja for a long, long time. I’ve always treated people with respect and have never been fazed by stories of bad guys/banditos. And I know, especially when one is off road, folks who travel in Baja look out for others. 
 
Patti and I had several concerned folks come by. The first couple, Latinos/as in a truck with California plates, called in Spanish for a tow truck, but were told none were available that morning. But an SUV packed with family also noticed our distress. The driver rolled up his pant legs, hooked up a tow strap, assured me that it would be easy to yank my little car out of the mud bog, and voila! We were free and, needless to say, went back to the paved roads to get back to SD. We tried, but the family refused payment. Thank goodness for karma!
 
I wish I had pics of this ordeal, but since we were in eight or more very yucky inches of mud, it was not pleasant. I was focused on getting out and not focused on posting on social media. The best I can do is this pic of my extremely muddy black leather boots as we stopped on our way back to SD. Not sure if my boots will ever be the same!
 
I am VERY grateful for the family who stopped and yanked us out, as well as for the help of Patti, who played a significant role in getting us out of the muck. 
 
On to the next adventure!
 
 
 

Finally! Another Valle Girls’ Trip (Part 1)

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Pre-COVID, my friend Patti and I made semi-regular gals’ trips to Valle de Guadalupe. We resurrected that tradition earlier this year, booking a cabin at Casa Mayoral, with one bed on the ground floor, another in the loft. We’ve stayed at CM twice before, but never in this casita/cabin. 

Cabin #1 at Casa Mayoral.

We love the ambiance and staff at CM. It’s south of the Ensenada-Tecate highway, far enough away to feel secluded and enjoy the nature, but with relatively quick access to the main highway. 

View from our little balcony at Casa Mayoral.

After checking in, our first stop was one of our favorites – Vinos Lechuza, which has added food options since my last visit. Fantastic to see Armando, who has become a highly valued employee at Lechuza; I first met Armando more than four years ago. Patti and I enjoyed a great wine tasting and shared a fabulous plate of almejas ahumadas (grilled clams smothered in cheese, veggies and herbs).

Yummy almejas (clams) at Lechuza!

Then it was off to our reservation at the Bruma Wine Garden. I’ve been to Bruma’s Fauna for their tasting menu, maybe four years ago; it was fantastic, and I really admire Chef David Castro Hussong.

Bruma’s Wine Garden is down below and north of Fauna, Bruma’s signature restaurant, and as you might expect, is outdoors, but under a lovely canopy of trees. I had heard positive reviews of their pizzas, so Patti and I shared one, along with a bottle of wine, and a very chocolaty dessert. It was a fine meal, but with so many Valle options, would I return? Not sure.

Bruma wine and fluffy pizza.

Ambiance at Bruma Wine Garden.

After finding our way back to CM on a dark, drizzly night with lots of traffic on the highway, we settled in for the night. I insisted on taking the loft bed, and it was a bit of a challenge negotiating the ladder/staircase to get up and down. But somehow I managed not to fall off. Whew!

I considered the access to our cabin’s loft the stairway to heaven.

Saturday morning we enjoyed an included breakfast at CM and received some helpful updates about the Valle from staff. We were saddened to learn that the long-standing Farmers’ Market at Mogor Badan went by the wayside during the pandemic and has not been revived since. 

We heeded a recommendation to visit the Misiones de California winery, which involved taking an unmarked road north of the highway in San Antonio de Las Minas. Once we finally found and proceeded up that dirt road, we did spot helpful signage. And, we found it! A rather hidden gem.

We did not have reservations (heck, we didn’t even know if we could find the place!) but our host Addie set us up for a great tasting even though she was awaiting a reservation that was running late. Once they – another pair of gal pals with a driver – arrived, happily we all merged together. This is not a place where you would expect wine tour buses to show up; it’s off the beaten Valle track. Patti and I especially enjoyed their Nebbiolo, and we promptly bought a bottle for our cabin. 

Entering the unassuming but wonderful Vinicola Misiones de California.

With our host and fellow wine fans at Misiones de Californias.

We stopped at Los Globos in San Antonio de las Minas for rosemary cheese and a bunch of other local products. On the way back to CM, I introduced Patti to Vinedos Don Tomas for another wine tasting. Don Tomas provides a very nice cheese/tomato/olive tray with their tasting, a super nice touch. Then it was back to CM to get ready for the highlight of our wine and culinary journey: a tasting menu dinner at Lunario.

Stay tuned for Part 2 with detailed info about our tasting experience, and our other rather crazy recent Valle adventures, coming soon!

 

 

Market at Mogor Badan went by the wayside during the pandemic. 

 

 

Two more Baja Festivals Announced!

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The venerable Rosarito Beach Hotel is turning 99 this year! We are all invited to attend the 99th Year Gala Celebration on Saturday June17 at 5 pm in the hotel gardens. There will be a concert by Beatles tribute band The Revolution. Food and beverages will be available, but apparently are not included in the admission which is 400 pesos in advance (about $20). Tickets can be purchased by calling 1-800-343-8582.

This photo is from Sabor de Baja 2016, also held in the gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel.

We were excited to learn that Festival Cocina La Baja will return on Saturday, July 15. Formerly held at the Estero Beach Hotel south of Ensenada, this year is moving to the Hotel Coral & Marina just north of Ensenada. A great event with a bigger variety of offerings than some of the other festivals. Apparently tix are not yet on sale, but you can follow CLB at https://www.facebook.com/cocinalabaja.

Attendees enoying Cocina La Baja 2022.

There are indications that the Baja Blues Fest might return to the gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel in mid-August, and we’ve heard the Valle Food & Wine Fest will be back this fall. No definitive dates for either, and no word yet on the potential return of  the classy all-white party, Sabor de Baja.

Stay tuned!

Gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.

Baja Food & Wine Festivals on the Horizon

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Hola amigos/as! It’s the time of year we’ve been waiting for: the Baja Festival Season! Here is a list of upcoming events on our radar screen, with links. We’ll write more about them individually in the near future.

Saturday, April 15, 4pm – Crossing South Food & Wine Festival, Rosarito Beach Hotel This first-time event is tied to the popular PBS TV show, Crossing South. Meet show host Jorge Meraz, enjoy food & wine samples, and salsa dance lessons! Tix: $70, $140 for VIP. Check out this video.

Sunday, April 23, noon – Festival de las Conchas y el Nuevo Vino, Hotel Coral & Marina, Ensenada One of our very favorite fests! With 50+ restaurants serving gourmet samples made with oysters, clams and scallops, and 80 wineries pouring tastes of 150 different wines . . . how can you go wrong? Tix: $1200 pesos (about $67 at the current exchange rate).



Saturday & Sunday, May 27-28, 10am – Art Walk Rosarito, CEART, Rosarito Beach Not a true food and wine fest, but in the past this event HAS included booths for both wine and food. Touring the art and talking with the artists is very fun! Admission in the past has been free. 

Saturday, June 10, noon – Fiesta de los Vinedos en Flor, Jardin Decantos, Valle de Guadalupe  A family-oriented event in a new location this year. Wine and beer tastings are offered, but you gotta pay for food (although prices are very reasonable). Tix: $700 pesos (about $37). And, kids under 18 are admitted free! Tix are on not sale yet. Read more at https://provinobc.mx/eventos/


Friday, August 4, 7pm – Muestra del Vino, Centro Cultural Riviera, Ensenada We’ve not been to this event, but it looks like a great time. It’s the opening event for Fiestas de la Vendimia, the Baja wine harvest celebration. And I love the venue, Cento Cultural Riviera! Again, tix are not on sale yet, but read more at https://provinobc.mx/eventos/

Sunday, August 20, noon – Concurso del Paellas, Vinedos Liceaga, Valle de Guadalupe My very favorite event of the year, with 80 wineries and 80+ teams of “paelleros.” Grab a table under the giant oak trees and enjoy wine, music, and of course, paella all afternoon. Such a festive but relaxing atmosphere. Bring friends, or make new ones! This is the closing event of the Fiestas de la Vendimia. Tix this year will be around $75, worth every penny, but are not yet on sale. Learn more at https://provinobc.mx/eventos/  



Three other past events: Cocina la Baja, typically held in early July at Estero Beach Hotel,Sabor de Baja, generally held in late August at the Rosarito Beach Hotel, and the Valle Food & Wine Fest, usually an October event, have not announced 2023 dates yet. We hope all shows will go on, and we will keep you posted.

Salud!

Como siempre, muchisimas gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.



A look back, a look ahead

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2019 was a very good year for eating and drinking in Baja! Here’s a quick recap of some of our favorite events:

Chef Drew Deckman’s offerings at Vinedos en Flor.
  • In July, we attended Cocina La Baja at the Estero Beach Hotel/Resort for our first time. What a great event! Beautiful setting, live music, fantastic restaurants/chefs, and cooking demos. Impressive!
Chefs Drew Deckman and Javier Plascencia at Cocina la Baja.
One of more than 90 pans at the Concurso de Paellas.
  • Sabor de Baja, held one evening each August at the Rosarito Beach Hotel, gets better year after year, with new restaurants, wineries and craft breweries represented. Keep up the great work, Bo and Dennis!
Getting fired up at Sabor de Baja.
  • Our road trip to Scorpion Bay in September was the first time I’ve been down the highway past Guerrero Negro in many years. We loved our stay at the Scorpion Bay Hotel, and enjoyed many eating and drinking opportunities along the way.
Ceviche at Vista al Mar just south of Loreto. As delicious as it was beautiful!
A bit more crowded this year, but the Valle Food & Wine Fest stays classy.
  • We spent a very rainy Thanksgiving brunching in Tecate with friends at Asao, wine tasting at Viña de Frannes and Hilo Negro in the Valle, and followed by a tasty Baja-style turkey dinner at the cozy Susanna’s in Rosarito.
Thanksgiving appetizer at Susanna’s: a light, fluffy and delicious corn tamal.

We look forward to many great events and experiences in 2020! Save these dates; we’ll publish details and info about additional events as they become available.

  • Festival de las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo – May 3 (main event)
  • Viñedos en Flor – June 13
  • Concurso de Paellas de Ramón García Ocejo – August 23
  • Sabor de Baja – August 26
  • Valle Food & Wine Fest – October 3 (tickets now on sale!)

Gracias por photos by Bob Gove.