New Friends, New (& Fave) Wineries

It’s interesting how folks who love Baja – and especially those who enjoy eating and drinking in Baja – connect. I learned about Michael Gardiner’s book, “Cali-Baja Cuisine” in December.

After giving it a once over online, I promptly purchased a copy for Bob’s daughter and son-in-law, who were raised in our cross-border region but are now raising their own family in Washington, D.C. Through the magic of social media, I connected with Michael and re-connected with the book’s very talented photographer, Cintia Soto. Before I knew it, Bob and I were invited to visit Michael and his lovely wife Nancy at their Baja casita, and shortly thereafter we all piled into my little NIssan Versa hatchback (named Viva, FYI), for a visit to Valle de Guadalupe.

We began our Valle adventure at Rondo del Valle. Bob and I had met the owner, Alberto, and sampled Rondo’s wines at events on both sides of the border, but had never made the pilgrimage to their facility. It’s next to King & Queen Cantina (am I the only one who thinks this place is a strange addition to the Valle?)

Check out this beautiful table at Rondo. Be careful, though, where you place your wine glass!

We shared a couple of regular tastings, including Rondo’s Candor (Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier) and Travesi (60/30/10 Merlot/Cab/Malbec). Rondo’s neighbor is Rancho El Parral, which has four rooms and looks like a lovely lodging option. Personally I prefer to stay closer to the center of the Valle. But, that’s just me . . .

Casa Magoni, our next stop, has remodeled since we last visited pre-pandemic. We opted for a tasting of Magoni’s reds under the boughs of a beautiful old oak tree.

We sampled Magoni’s Sangiovese/Cab; their Origen 43, a “Super Toscano” blend of Sangiovese/Aglianico/Canaiolo/Montepulciano (with, as they put it, “a small contribution of Cab”); their Merlot/Malbec; and finally, their lovely Nebbiolo, which is reputed to have been derived from a clone brought from Italy and, over time, adapted to the Valle’s climactic conditions.

Next up: lunch next door at Finca Altozano. It’s been a while since we’d dined at Finca (there are now SO many options in the Valle!), but they did not disappoint.

We had the very fresh clams (almejas reinas) and an octopus dish . . .

. . . while Michael and Nancy went big, ordering the shrimp zarandeado and the local quail grilled over oak. We shared a tasty bottle of Nebbiolo from neighbor Henri Lurton.

One last stop on our way back toward Rosarito: Hilo Negro, where we enjoyed a glass of their award-winning Zig Zag, a delicious blend of 70/30 Nebbiolo/Syrah. I DO like their wines. A fabulous way to cap off a lovely day!

I had, of course, by this time purchased my own copy of Michael’s “Cali-Baja Cuisine,” which he graciously signed. I’ve been working my way through the yummy recipes, and I heartily encourage you to do the same!

Como siempre, gracias por los fotos de Bob Gove. Stay tuned for a report on our most recent Valle adventures, coming soon!

A few of our favorite things . . .

Indeed, there are a lot of upscale dining opportunities now that the world has discovered Baja’s culinary scene, particularly in Valle de Guadalupe. Tasting menus for $100 or more, plus wine pairings, abound. And that’s great. But we’d like to share some of our favorite, low-key (and, far lower cost) venues in Rosarito and environs. Join us!

Roble has been around four or more years, at the northern end of Rosarito, near Bob’s casita. We go for breakfast, and are usually the only non-Latinos. After 9am on weekends, there often is a wait. Menu is huge, and the omelets and crepes are humungous. Did I mention the mimosas? Great value for the $$. There is also a Roble (the original?) in Tijuana.

 

Tito’s is another over-achiever. On the east side of the toll road at the major intersection of Rosarito, (turn off the Boulevard by McDonald’s) you don’t want to order TOO much at Tito’s, because each serving is HUGE! Start small, you can always order more. In the past year or two, Tito’s Rosarito has added a full bar. Which makes us happy.

El Poder is a small seafood stand on the northern end of Rosarito with a few tables outside and in. I am a sucker for their almejas ahumadas, stuffed clams. Their ceviche tostadas (ask for one with shrimp) and fish and shrimp tacos are also great. Bob has been coming here for so long, the family presented him with one of their T-shirts, which he wears proudly.

Our very fave Sunday brunch has gotta be Ruben’s. Paella! Oysters! Clams! Omelets! And bottomless mimosas/champagne, if you choose that option. We’ve been going for years. And we love the talented Maryam Mylak Singer, who easily switches from Mexican pop to opera to leading a line-dance to “Achy Breaky Heart” en Español. Look out: you could be be dancing (cue the Bee Gees).

We’ve only been to La Catrina once, but it was worth getting off the beaten path. From what I understand, the chef/owner used to work at Ollie’s Pizza on the north end of Las Gaviotas. La Catrina is rather buried in Cantamar/Primo Tapia, but once you find its ocean view location, you’ll be pleased.

We have built a tradition of Thanksgiving at Susanna’s. For a few years, we had Thanksgiving dinner in the Valle, but found it was just too far to drive back after a big meal and lots of wine. More recently, we wine taste in the Valle on Thanksgiving day, then head to Susanna’s for Thanksgiving dinner. It’s a lot closer to Bob’s Rosarito casita.

My favorite thing about Thanksgiving at Susanna’s? The appetizer tamal. I look forward to it – every year, it is fabulous. Light and fluffy, not heavy like so many tamales. And Susanna’s does a great job on the rest of the holiday meal, including their upscale cranberry sauce. Susanna’s recently received a well-deserved award from CANIRAC, the Baja restaurant association!

There are two places in San Antonio del Mar that we frequent on our Sunday getaways to the SENTRI line. Cafe Conrado has been there for years. We love sitting outside and we really like their food.

Nonoy’s opened in the same strip center maybe 2 or 3 years ago. I first wandered in to buy a loaf of bread (which was excellent). They had a few tables downstairs and a few up a spiral staircase. However, they have recently expanded and we are so happy for them! We have gotten to know Victor, who I believe is the owner, a tiny bit. Nonoy’s is adding an oyster bar (we shared six creamy oysters from Ensenada on a recent visit).

Bob is intense as he chomps down his salmon “sunny sandwich” at Nonoy’s.

And, then there is Colectivo Surf. We started going to this venue because they had the Aztecs/Padres on TV. But found they feature the best bluefin tuna in the region. Who would have thought?

Pic via A Gringo in Mexico.

Their fish is amazingly fresh and the staff (we sit at the bar) is super friendly. My colleague Scott Koenig of A Gringo in Mexico recently named Colectivo as his top Rosarito culinary destination.

We certainly won’t argue or complain!

 

Two more Baja Festivals Announced!

The venerable Rosarito Beach Hotel is turning 99 this year! We are all invited to attend the 99th Year Gala Celebration on Saturday June17 at 5 pm in the hotel gardens. There will be a concert by Beatles tribute band The Revolution. Food and beverages will be available, but apparently are not included in the admission which is 400 pesos in advance (about $20). Tickets can be purchased by calling 1-800-343-8582.

This photo is from Sabor de Baja 2016, also held in the gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel.

We were excited to learn that Festival Cocina La Baja will return on Saturday, July 15. Formerly held at the Estero Beach Hotel south of Ensenada, this year is moving to the Hotel Coral & Marina just north of Ensenada. A great event with a bigger variety of offerings than some of the other festivals. Apparently tix are not yet on sale, but you can follow CLB at https://www.facebook.com/cocinalabaja.

Attendees enoying Cocina La Baja 2022.

There are indications that the Baja Blues Fest might return to the gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel in mid-August, and we’ve heard the Valle Food & Wine Fest will be back this fall. No definitive dates for either, and no word yet on the potential return of  the classy all-white party, Sabor de Baja.

Stay tuned!

Gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.

Baja Food & Wine Festivals on the Horizon

Hola amigos/as! It’s the time of year we’ve been waiting for: the Baja Festival Season! Here is a list of upcoming events on our radar screen, with links. We’ll write more about them individually in the near future.

Saturday, April 15, 4pm – Crossing South Food & Wine Festival, Rosarito Beach Hotel This first-time event is tied to the popular PBS TV show, Crossing South. Meet show host Jorge Meraz, enjoy food & wine samples, and salsa dance lessons! Tix: $70, $140 for VIP. Check out this video.

Sunday, April 23, noon – Festival de las Conchas y el Nuevo Vino, Hotel Coral & Marina, Ensenada One of our very favorite fests! With 50+ restaurants serving gourmet samples made with oysters, clams and scallops, and 80 wineries pouring tastes of 150 different wines . . . how can you go wrong? Tix: $1200 pesos (about $67 at the current exchange rate).



Saturday & Sunday, May 27-28, 10am – Art Walk Rosarito, CEART, Rosarito Beach Not a true food and wine fest, but in the past this event HAS included booths for both wine and food. Touring the art and talking with the artists is very fun! Admission in the past has been free. 

Saturday, June 10, noon – Fiesta de los Vinedos en Flor, Jardin Decantos, Valle de Guadalupe  A family-oriented event in a new location this year. Wine and beer tastings are offered, but you gotta pay for food (although prices are very reasonable). Tix: $700 pesos (about $37). And, kids under 18 are admitted free! Tix are on not sale yet. Read more at https://provinobc.mx/eventos/


Friday, August 4, 7pm – Muestra del Vino, Centro Cultural Riviera, Ensenada We’ve not been to this event, but it looks like a great time. It’s the opening event for Fiestas de la Vendimia, the Baja wine harvest celebration. And I love the venue, Cento Cultural Riviera! Again, tix are not on sale yet, but read more at https://provinobc.mx/eventos/

Sunday, August 20, noon – Concurso del Paellas, Vinedos Liceaga, Valle de Guadalupe My very favorite event of the year, with 80 wineries and 80+ teams of “paelleros.” Grab a table under the giant oak trees and enjoy wine, music, and of course, paella all afternoon. Such a festive but relaxing atmosphere. Bring friends, or make new ones! This is the closing event of the Fiestas de la Vendimia. Tix this year will be around $75, worth every penny, but are not yet on sale. Learn more at https://provinobc.mx/eventos/  



Three other past events: Cocina la Baja, typically held in early July at Estero Beach Hotel,Sabor de Baja, generally held in late August at the Rosarito Beach Hotel, and the Valle Food & Wine Fest, usually an October event, have not announced 2023 dates yet. We hope all shows will go on, and we will keep you posted.

Salud!

Como siempre, muchisimas gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.



Baja in a Time of Coronavirus

It’s been a tough three months, hasn’t it? Trying to stay safe and healthy, and dealing with racial injustice and resulting fallout. Let’s pray that the second half of 2020 will be much better!

Some random insights on what’s going on south of the border:

Border Closure. In theory, the US/Mexico border is closed to all but essential travel. But I have several friends (who shall remain nameless) who have been down multiple times in the past three months since the purported “closure,” with no questions or problems. However, they all drive across, and all have SENTRI passes. U.S. and Mexico officials have just extended the closure until July 21.

Approaching Tijuana via San Ysidro.

Ensenada Closure. According to Baja Bound’s recent Border Crossing Update, visits to Ensenada are banned for non-essential reasons, with checkpoints at El Sauzal and other entry points. But if you are going to Valle de Guadalupe, friends’ experiences have proven that there is access via the free road via La Mision; however, apparently, the highway from Ensenada to the Valle is blocked. One friend got a screamin’ deal at one of my fave Valle B&Bs in May, and reported that most tasting rooms and restaurants were closed, but products were available for takeout.

Valle Update. Kristin Magnussen Shute of Vinos Lechuza reports that they have just been given the green light to reopen, although with “limited capacity.” An encouraging sign! Be sure and make reservations if you plan to visit Lechuza.

Coastal Area Restaurants. I’m sure this is woefully incomplete, but here’s a smattering of news: twenty-eight of Puerto Nuevo’s 30 restaurants have now reopened, so you can get your lobster fix! Splash (Km52), Poco Cielo (Km59) and La Fonda (Km59.5) have reopened and are doing brisk business. Colectivo Surf Tasting Room (Km41) is currently training staff in anticipation of reopening soon. Happy Hour Restaurante (Km43) and Kraken (Km52) are also serving. In downtown Rosarito, Susanna’s, El Nido and Bistro Le Cousteau are open. YAAY!

A recent beautiful day (with music!) at Poco Cielo

Farmers Market. Bart Berry reports that the Puerta al Valle Farmers Market is back in operation every Saturday from noon to 2 p.m. in La Mision (Km62). If you go, check out Bart’s smoked yellowtail; it looks delicious!

Get Bart Berry’s smoked yellowtail at the Puerta al Valle Farmers Market.

Food and Wine Festivals. Sadly, Comite Provino’s wonderful Festival de Las Conchas y El Vino Nuevo (first planned for May 3, then delayed until June 7) has been postponed until further notice, as has their many Fiestas de La Vendima events (planned for late July through mid-August). This includes the 30th Annual Paella Fest, scheduled for August 16! Bo Bendana is taking a “wait and see” posture on Sabor de Baja, originally scheduled for August 26. Carolina Carreno of the big Valle Food and Wine Fest planned for October 3 reports they are working with the government to see if events of their size and scope will be permitted at that time. In the meantime, ticket sales have been paused. Fingers crossed that the 2020 Baja food and wine festival shows WILL go on! 

Memories of the 2019 Paella Fest.

At least Baja eating and drinking opportunities are opening up. Please contact me with any other insights. And please, stay tuned! 

A look back, a look ahead

2019 was a very good year for eating and drinking in Baja! Here’s a quick recap of some of our favorite events:

Chef Drew Deckman’s offerings at Vinedos en Flor.
  • In July, we attended Cocina La Baja at the Estero Beach Hotel/Resort for our first time. What a great event! Beautiful setting, live music, fantastic restaurants/chefs, and cooking demos. Impressive!
Chefs Drew Deckman and Javier Plascencia at Cocina la Baja.
One of more than 90 pans at the Concurso de Paellas.
  • Sabor de Baja, held one evening each August at the Rosarito Beach Hotel, gets better year after year, with new restaurants, wineries and craft breweries represented. Keep up the great work, Bo and Dennis!
Getting fired up at Sabor de Baja.
  • Our road trip to Scorpion Bay in September was the first time I’ve been down the highway past Guerrero Negro in many years. We loved our stay at the Scorpion Bay Hotel, and enjoyed many eating and drinking opportunities along the way.
Ceviche at Vista al Mar just south of Loreto. As delicious as it was beautiful!
A bit more crowded this year, but the Valle Food & Wine Fest stays classy.
  • We spent a very rainy Thanksgiving brunching in Tecate with friends at Asao, wine tasting at Viña de Frannes and Hilo Negro in the Valle, and followed by a tasty Baja-style turkey dinner at the cozy Susanna’s in Rosarito.
Thanksgiving appetizer at Susanna’s: a light, fluffy and delicious corn tamal.

We look forward to many great events and experiences in 2020! Save these dates; we’ll publish details and info about additional events as they become available.

  • Festival de las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo – May 3 (main event)
  • Viñedos en Flor – June 13
  • Concurso de Paellas de Ramón García Ocejo – August 23
  • Sabor de Baja – August 26
  • Valle Food & Wine Fest – October 3 (tickets now on sale!)

Gracias por photos by Bob Gove.

What we ate & drank this summer

What a fantastic Baja festival season! We’ve got a lot of memorable eating and drinking to share; let’s get on with it!

Cocina La Baja – July 27

This third annual all-seafood fest was new on on our radar screen, but what a winner! Held at the lovely Estero Beach Hotel & Resort just south of Ensenada, it sold out this year. Cocina La Baja spotlights super-fresh local and sustainable seafood from folks who truly care. Well-organized and beautifully presented, more cervecerias were on hand than wineries. We loved being in the presence of Baja royalty: Chef Javier Plascencia led a cooking demo of farmed totoaba, and Chef Drew Deckman made the rounds. Tix: less than $16 U.S. for a full afternoon of gastronomical delights. Incredible! We’ll definitely be back next year.

Beautiful setting at the Estero Beach Hotel & Resort!
One of the many yummy offerings at Cocina La Baja.
Smiling chefs Drew Deckman and Javier Plascencia.

Several Baja craft breweries were represented, including Agua Mala.

Concurso de Paellas – August 18

I was fortunate to first attend the fledging but still popular Valle de Guadalupe Concurso de Paellas de Ramon Garcia Ocejo way back in 1996. It has grown, but remains a wonderful way to spend an August afternoon! With 92 paella-producing teams and 62 wineries to sample, how can you go wrong? We congratulate “paelleros” Los Chatos and Vivencias on their wins this year!

A lovely August afternoon under the oak trees of Vinas de Liceaga.
WOW: Just one of more than 90 presentations of paella at the 2019 Concurso.
Loved seeing Natalia Badan and her Mogor Badan colleague at the event . . .
. . . as well as Victor Torres, patriarch of Vinicola Torres Alegre. So special!

Sabor de Baja – August 28

Bo Bendana and Dennis Sein recognized Baja’s culinary potential back in 2013, when they launched Sabor de Baja. And, the event keeps getting better year after year, with careful pairings of many of Baja’s best restaurants, wineries and craft brewers in the beachfront gardens of the lovely Rosarito Beach Hotel! Congrats to Tecate’s Amores, matched with wine from Monte Xanic, on taking first place in this year’s competition. But we attendees were the real winners! I’ve said it before: Sabor is a true labor of love by Bo and Dennis. It shows, and is much appreciated! Check out this cool video by Rosarito’s Scot Richardson.

A highlight for me: chatting with RB Hotel’s Hugo Torres and his lovely wife at Sabor.
Dennis Sein presided over the formidable task of judging the dozens of pairings.

Como siempre, gracias to Bob Gove for the fine photos.

Counting down to Sabor de Baja!

It’s just four weeks ’til Baja Norte’s gastro party of the year, Sabor de Baja. And, this is the fifth annual Sabor; all the more reason to attend! Sabor is a true labor of love by Chef Bo Bendana and her hubby, Dennis Sein. This dynamic duo pulls together Baja chefs, wineries, craft brewers and more for one fabulous evening in the gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel. And, Sabor is a friendly but serious competition; a panel of judges has the daunting task of sampling each dish along with its beverage pairing, and then selecting the best of the best. Attendees get to vote, too, as a People’s Choice Award is presented each year! We are excited that several new-ish restaurants will be participating this year:

Sabor takes place Wednesday, August 28 at the aforementioned RB Hotel. Spring for VIP tix at $90 and get early access at 5:30 pm, tastings and beverage pairings, plus seating at tables near the stage, waiter service, a goodie bag, and the commemorative wine glass. General admission guests ($70) will have access at 6 pm, tastings and beverage pairings, and the commemorative wine glass. Everyone can enjoy live music and dancing, including Rosarito favorite Maryam Malak, whom we were fortunate to hear during a delicious and very filling brunch at Ruben’s last Sunday! Read my recap of Sabor 2018, then click here for more information, including how to get tickets. See you at Sabor!   

Valley Girl Wines wins the 2018 People’s Choice Award!

Best. Sabor. Ever.

I’d say last week’s Sabor de Baja blew the roof off the place . . . but the only ceiling was the beautiful Baja sky! The beach side gardens of the grand Rosarito Beach Hotel were once again filled with white-clad attendees, anxious to sample the offerings of 27 chefs paired with an equal number of wineries and craft breweries. Congratulations go to First Place winner Chef Marco Marin of Latitud 32 in Valle de Guadalupe for his delicious plum crumble with piloncillo, paired with (and incorporating) Border Psycho’s yummy black saison, La Belga Sicotica (and, great to visit with Psycho’s Roberto again!). Second Place was earned by Rosarito’s Sokuna Cocina de Asia and Chef Stephen Sovann, paired with MD Vinos. I loved the Third Place pairing, Valle de Guadalupe’s Tizne’s sope de platano maduro with requeson and charred tomatillo, paired with delicious Syrah/Nebbiolo from Vina Emiliana. And, it was a treat to meet una Hija de la Tiznada, Chef Miriam! The People’s Choice Award went to Tijuana’s Koi Sushi and Chef Yaron Del Moral, for his pairing with Valley Girl Wine. For what it’s worth, Tijuana’s Oryx Capital’s seductive, smoky uni chowder, topped with an artsy tiny tostada and paired with Vinas las Erre Blanc, got my vote! This was the best Sabor we’ve attended, fantastic chefs, careful pairings, thoughtful planning. Thank you, Bo Bendana & Dennis Sein, for all the love and hard work you put into this event; it really shows. Under your direction, the event has grown and matured – and will continue to do so – along with the now red-hot Baja culinary scene. We especially appreciate the fact that you have introduced us to local restaurants that we can visit on our own! The 5th Annual Sabor de Baja will take place on Wednesday, August 28, 2019 at the Rosarito Beach Hotel. Catch this classic end-of-summer Baja tradition!

With La Tizne Chef Miriam

Almejas with aguachile at Sabor!

Oryx Capital’s uni chowder

Glad to see Valley Girl as a winner again this year!

AND look for an update soon on the NEXT BIG BAJA THING: the Valle Food & Wine Fest Oct. 5-7 in Valle de Guadalupe!

Gracias for photos by Bob Gove.

New chefs at Sabor de Baja!

We love Sabor de Baja, and are really looking forward to the August 29 event in Rosarito! Sabor is well-organized, with careful pairings of chefs with Baja wineries and craft breweries. Judges have the difficult task of blind-sampling the offerings with beverage pairings; attendees also vote for a People’s Choice award. This year promises to be extra-delicious, with a number of chefs participating. We are anxious to sample the offerings of:

Tix include all food & wine, live entertainment, a commemorative wine glass, and more! It’s a great way to sample Baja’s newest spots, all in one lovely location. A limited number of gold tickets (early entry, reserved seating near the stage) MAY still be available for $85; silver tickets are $70. Don’t wait – get your tix NOW via sabordebaja@gmail.com or 664.533.2479. The event is a fantastic evening in the beachfront gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel; it’s an all-white party, so dress accordingly! Sabor promises to be extra tasty this year; we hope to see you there.


Gracias for photos by Bob Gove.