Tag Archives: wineries

New Friends, New (& Fave) Wineries

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It’s interesting how folks who love Baja – and especially those who enjoy eating and drinking in Baja – connect. I learned about Michael Gardiner’s book, “Cali-Baja Cuisine” in December.

After giving it a once over online, I promptly purchased a copy for Bob’s daughter and son-in-law, who were raised in our cross-border region but are now raising their own family in Washington, D.C. Through the magic of social media, I connected with Michael and re-connected with the book’s very talented photographer, Cintia Soto. Before I knew it, Bob and I were invited to visit Michael and his lovely wife Nancy at their Baja casita, and shortly thereafter we all piled into my little NIssan Versa hatchback (named Viva, FYI), for a visit to Valle de Guadalupe.

We began our Valle adventure at Rondo del Valle. Bob and I had met the owner, Alberto, and sampled Rondo’s wines at events on both sides of the border, but had never made the pilgrimage to their facility. It’s next to King & Queen Cantina (am I the only one who thinks this place is a strange addition to the Valle?)

Check out this beautiful table at Rondo. Be careful, though, where you place your wine glass!

We shared a couple of regular tastings, including Rondo’s Candor (Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier) and Travesi (60/30/10 Merlot/Cab/Malbec). Rondo’s neighbor is Rancho El Parral, which has four rooms and looks like a lovely lodging option. Personally I prefer to stay closer to the center of the Valle. But, that’s just me . . .

Casa Magoni, our next stop, has remodeled since we last visited pre-pandemic. We opted for a tasting of Magoni’s reds under the boughs of a beautiful old oak tree.

We sampled Magoni’s Sangiovese/Cab; their Origen 43, a “Super Toscano” blend of Sangiovese/Aglianico/Canaiolo/Montepulciano (with, as they put it, “a small contribution of Cab”); their Merlot/Malbec; and finally, their lovely Nebbiolo, which is reputed to have been derived from a clone brought from Italy and, over time, adapted to the Valle’s climactic conditions.

Next up: lunch next door at Finca Altozano. It’s been a while since we’d dined at Finca (there are now SO many options in the Valle!), but they did not disappoint.

We had the very fresh clams (almejas reinas) and an octopus dish . . .

. . . while Michael and Nancy went big, ordering the shrimp zarandeado and the local quail grilled over oak. We shared a tasty bottle of Nebbiolo from neighbor Henri Lurton.

One last stop on our way back toward Rosarito: Hilo Negro, where we enjoyed a glass of their award-winning Zig Zag, a delicious blend of 70/30 Nebbiolo/Syrah. I DO like their wines. A fabulous way to cap off a lovely day!

I had, of course, by this time purchased my own copy of Michael’s “Cali-Baja Cuisine,” which he graciously signed. I’ve been working my way through the yummy recipes, and I heartily encourage you to do the same!

Como siempre, gracias por los fotos de Bob Gove. Stay tuned for a report on our most recent Valle adventures, coming soon!

Two Festivals (& A Fun New Restaurant)

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This Saturday, October 21 is the second annual Vino Sin Fronteras Festival in Tijuana. The afternoon-into-evening event will be held in the parking lot of Caliente Hipódromo from 3 to 10 pm. Boasting the participation of 50 wineries and 30 restaurants, the fest is put on by the wonderful Comite Provino, so it’s very likely to be well-organized (and well-attended). Tickets are $1500 pesos, or about $82-$85, depending on the ever-fluctuating exchange rate.

Chef Diego Hernández, a Baja native who helmed the acclaimed Corazón del Valle restaurant in 2011 until it was shuttered during the pandemic, has launched a new eatery, Parador Mercedes, named in honor of his late grandma. Taking over the former Mesón de Mustafá space in San Antonio de las Minas, Hernández and chef-partner Ana Juncal are focusing on home-style cooking geared toward Valle de Guadalupe-area residents. It’s a welcome departure from the delicious-but-expensive tasting menus at so many Valle eateries; can’t wait to check it out. Parador Mercedes is open from 8am to 4pm daily (closed Thursday) on Highway 3 at Km 93. Read more about Parador Mercedes on Eater San Diego.

If you are heading a bit further south – to Baja California Sur – later this year, try to time your visit with the GastroVino Baja Food & Wine Festival in the lovely town of Todos Santos. This three-day celebration of Baja’s finest eating and drinking looks like fun! And, love the graphics. Although Todos is just an hour north of Cabo San Lucas (on the Pacific side), this “Pueblo Mágico” is a world apart. Save the dates: December 8-10.

Look for a report on our recent foray to three Valle de Guadalupe wineries we had not yet visited, coming soon!

Hot Happenings North of the Border!

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Attention Baja lovers! If you can’t head south, here are a few events coming up on this side of the border.

Chef Diego Hernandez of Valle de Guadalupe will be a special guest for the one-year anniversary of Crudo in Little Italy from 2pm until closing tomorrow, Thursday, Sept. 28. Click here for details. 

The 2nd annual Baja Bound Baja Travel and Lifestyle Expo takes place this Saturday, Sept. 30 from 12-5pm at Crown Point Park. Check out more than 100 exhibitors, food & drinks, speakers and live music. Get more information here. 

Mexico Gourmet: A Day of the Dead Food and Spirits Festival is coming Saturday and Sunday, Oct. 21 and 22, from 4-8pm at Fashion Valley. The event will feature chefs from Mexico, tequila, mezcal, beer, parades, and more. Click here for details and a 20% discount on admission. 

Michelin-starred Valle de Guadalupe chef Drew Deckman will finally open a San Diego restaurant! We just can’t get enough of his sustainable, community-based, rustic cuisine. Look for a February 2024 debut in North Park. Find more information by clicking here.  

And us? We’ll be heading to the Valle this weekend on a mission to visit some of the wineries we’ve never made it to in the past (yes, believe it or not, there are a few!) Stay tuned for a report..

Sweltering Summer Afternoon at Concurso de Paellas

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(If you experience difficulty viewing the images on your device, please click on https://www.eatdrinkbaja.com/?p=2349)

The annual Paella Contest at Viña de Liceaga in Valle de Guadalupe was scheduled for Sunday, August 20 – until the threat of Hurricane/Tropical Storm Hilary pushed it back a week. Which was a good thing, as it would have been a veritable mud and wind fest, and not very enjoyable for attendees, paelleros, or winery representatives! Although it was very hot last Sunday, the event took place without a hitch.

The contest brings together about 80 teams, who take their paella very seriously. The event also showcases Baja wineries, with around 150 varietals available for tasting! Paella (as we lovingly refer to it) is the closing event of the multi-week Fiestas de la Vendimia, the grape harvest fest, and has been held for more than 25 years.

As you can see, there are many different versions of paella cooked up over wood fire at the event (no propane allowed!) but most are comprised of various seafood, bits of sausage, mystery meat (chicken? pork?) peas, spices, and of course, the ubiquitous  rice.

This team spotlighted octopus, or pulpo, as the star of their paella!

Jumping on the Barbie bandwagon, Team Barbie’s booth was festooned in pink, and the servers sported pink aprons and chef’s hats.

Opening times for booths are staggered. Before each one opens for attendees, event staff on quads pick up samples of each team’s paella for the judging. And then the feeding frenzy begins!

A close-up of a serving of one of the several paellas we enjoyed.

Always good to see Armando staffing the booth for Lechuza, one of our favorite Valle wineries . . . 

. . . a representative from MD Vinos of Valle de la Grulla, the original wine route of Baja, south of Ensenada . . .

. . . as well as the Madera 5 team.

Live music, too! In both English and Español.

Team EDB at the event. Over the years, we’ve learned to bring a tablecloth to mark our spot, and wine glasses, since sometimes (including this year) glasses are not provided to attendees. Hats also recommended!

The Concurso de Paellas may be the last big Baja food & wine festival of this year; we’ve not heard yet if or when the Valle Food and Wine Fest, usually staged in October, will take place. Stay tuned for updates!

Of course, if no events are on the horizon, we encourage “independent study” of the various Baja wineries.

Como siempre, gracias por los fotos de Bob Gove.

Conchas: An Oyster Lover’s Paradise

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OK, the real name is Festival de Las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo. But those of us who have been attending for years just refer to it as Conchas. Held every spring by the marina at the lovely Hotel Coral north of Ensenada, Conchas is the unofficial start of the annual Baja wine and food fest season. And here we go!

Comite Provino does a great job staging their events.

In theory, the event showcases Baja’s oysters, clams, mussels and abalone. In reality, there are a LOT of oysters. Not that we’re complaining!

Gotta love an oyster-filled wine barrel!

Great to see Drew Deckman of the Valle’s Deckman’s en el Mogor at Conchas.

Conchas attracts a crowd, but we’ve never found it unmanageable. Just grab a table early!

The Three Amigos – great participants in Team EatDrinkBaja at Conchas 2023.

Look for a post soon about our visit to the Festival de los Vinedos en Flor earlier this month. And we look forward to Cocina La Baja on July 15 and the big Concurso de Paellas on August 20! Tickets for both are now available.

Otra vez, gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.

Lunario: Over the Moon (Valle Girls’ Trip, Part 2)

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My good friend Patti and I packed a lot of fun into our recent two-night stay in Valle de Guadalupe. A highlight was our dinner at Lunario.

I’d visited the Lomita Winery several times over the years; as a matter of fact, learning about Lomita when they participated in a Baja-related event at Mingei International Museum eight or nine years ago helped inspire me to launch this blog. Lomita opened my eyes, made me realize there was more to the Valle than long-time wineries I was familiar with: LA Cetto, Pedro Domecq, Santo Tomas, Monte Xanic and Chateau Camou.

Nothing against the longer-established wineries, of course. But getting acquainted with Lomita back then made me wonder .. . what the heck is going on down there?

Since, the Valle has exploded. And like many wineries, Lomita has added dining options. After hearing great things about Chef Sheyla Alvarado, I wanted to check out her most recent Valle venture.

Lunario is tucked a short walk across from the Lomita tasting room. Lunario is a small room, and reservations are important. 

Patti and I had opted for the six-course tasting menu, with pairings (why not?). We had fantastic attention from our server, the sommelier, and others. 

Here’s an overview of the plates we enjoyed at Lunario. Try not to drool on your phone or keyboard.

Amuse: A tease as to what is to come. Oysters, pistachios & sheep cheese. A delicious prelude. Yums.

Course #1: Requeson, Tomato & Carrots. Paired with a 2022 Chassels from Cavas del Mogor. I believe more pistachios were involved here.

Course #2: Crudo with Cantaloupe Seed Aguachile, paired with a Lomita 2020 Chardonnay. Fresh and delicious! 

Third course-:”Lobina,” sea bass zarandeado. A very upscale version of what you might order at a beachside shack in Popotla, just south of Rosarito. Deilicious. This was paired with a Mantis Wheat Orange beer from Ensenada’s Aguamala, which we thought was a bit weird (we prefer wine!) . 

On to the next!  A plantain tamal with black recado, paired with a 2018 Cavas del Mogor Pirineo .I’ve encountered many tamales in my life, from Baja to Oaxaca, but this was the most interesting!  Yummy, but in a strange black package. But I guess that was the idea!

Since neither Patti nor I consume red meat or pork, sticking to veggies, seafood and poultry, Lunario adapted our tasting to replace goat with a wonderful mushroom dish. Much appreciated! Paired with a 2018 Cabernet from Finca La Carrodilla, Lomita’s sister winery.
Coming down to the end of our culinary adventure at Lunario, we enjoyed a pre-dessert of mango, vanilla & kumquat.
The REAL dessert was composed of raw cream, strawberries and peas (an ingredient one rarely encounters in a dessert). Accompanied by a Lomita wine with bubbles, poured out of a can. Fabulous!
As you can see, several of the dishes were served on base layers or “puddles.” Which seemed a bit repetitive. But, we enjoyed it all and did not complain! Lunario is definitely worth your visit.
 
Sunday we checked out of Casa Mayoral and headed north. My plan was to do one final tasting at Hilo Negro before taking the back road out of the Valle through La Mision. However, rather than staying on the paved roads, I bravely took a short cut on the dirt road that passes Laja and Finca Altozano.
 
Note to self and others – do not attempt this road in the rainy season in a Nissan Versa hatchback. Charging a significant mud bog, my little car became totally stuck, not able to move forward or backward. Yikes!
 
I’ve been traveling throughout Baja for a long, long time. I’ve always treated people with respect and have never been fazed by stories of bad guys/banditos. And I know, especially when one is off road, folks who travel in Baja look out for others. 
 
Patti and I had several concerned folks come by. The first couple, Latinos/as in a truck with California plates, called in Spanish for a tow truck, but were told none were available that morning. But an SUV packed with family also noticed our distress. The driver rolled up his pant legs, hooked up a tow strap, assured me that it would be easy to yank my little car out of the mud bog, and voila! We were free and, needless to say, went back to the paved roads to get back to SD. We tried, but the family refused payment. Thank goodness for karma!
 
I wish I had pics of this ordeal, but since we were in eight or more very yucky inches of mud, it was not pleasant. I was focused on getting out and not focused on posting on social media. The best I can do is this pic of my extremely muddy black leather boots as we stopped on our way back to SD. Not sure if my boots will ever be the same!
 
I am VERY grateful for the family who stopped and yanked us out, as well as for the help of Patti, who played a significant role in getting us out of the muck. 
 
On to the next adventure!
 
 
 

Baja Food & Wine Festivals on the Horizon

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Hola amigos/as! It’s the time of year we’ve been waiting for: the Baja Festival Season! Here is a list of upcoming events on our radar screen, with links. We’ll write more about them individually in the near future.

Saturday, April 15, 4pm – Crossing South Food & Wine Festival, Rosarito Beach Hotel This first-time event is tied to the popular PBS TV show, Crossing South. Meet show host Jorge Meraz, enjoy food & wine samples, and salsa dance lessons! Tix: $70, $140 for VIP. Check out this video.

Sunday, April 23, noon – Festival de las Conchas y el Nuevo Vino, Hotel Coral & Marina, Ensenada One of our very favorite fests! With 50+ restaurants serving gourmet samples made with oysters, clams and scallops, and 80 wineries pouring tastes of 150 different wines . . . how can you go wrong? Tix: $1200 pesos (about $67 at the current exchange rate).



Saturday & Sunday, May 27-28, 10am – Art Walk Rosarito, CEART, Rosarito Beach Not a true food and wine fest, but in the past this event HAS included booths for both wine and food. Touring the art and talking with the artists is very fun! Admission in the past has been free. 

Saturday, June 10, noon – Fiesta de los Vinedos en Flor, Jardin Decantos, Valle de Guadalupe  A family-oriented event in a new location this year. Wine and beer tastings are offered, but you gotta pay for food (although prices are very reasonable). Tix: $700 pesos (about $37). And, kids under 18 are admitted free! Tix are on not sale yet. Read more at https://provinobc.mx/eventos/


Friday, August 4, 7pm – Muestra del Vino, Centro Cultural Riviera, Ensenada We’ve not been to this event, but it looks like a great time. It’s the opening event for Fiestas de la Vendimia, the Baja wine harvest celebration. And I love the venue, Cento Cultural Riviera! Again, tix are not on sale yet, but read more at https://provinobc.mx/eventos/

Sunday, August 20, noon – Concurso del Paellas, Vinedos Liceaga, Valle de Guadalupe My very favorite event of the year, with 80 wineries and 80+ teams of “paelleros.” Grab a table under the giant oak trees and enjoy wine, music, and of course, paella all afternoon. Such a festive but relaxing atmosphere. Bring friends, or make new ones! This is the closing event of the Fiestas de la Vendimia. Tix this year will be around $75, worth every penny, but are not yet on sale. Learn more at https://provinobc.mx/eventos/  



Three other past events: Cocina la Baja, typically held in early July at Estero Beach Hotel,Sabor de Baja, generally held in late August at the Rosarito Beach Hotel, and the Valle Food & Wine Fest, usually an October event, have not announced 2023 dates yet. We hope all shows will go on, and we will keep you posted.

Salud!

Como siempre, muchisimas gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.



So close to El Cielo, but a world apart

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We recently trundled down to Valle de Guadalupe to visit Valle Girl Vino‘s tasting room, El Corcho Rosa (the pink cork). We had met founder and CEO Sitara Monica Perez at Baja food and wine events, but had never visited her winery. What drew us in like a magnet was news of an event pairing Valle Girl wines with artisanal cheeses from Tecate. A great excuse to visit in the name of research, right?

Arriving in the Valle a bit early, we stopped at Las Nubes for a quick tasting. This was our first visit to Nubes since they reopened in June after closing due to coronavirus. We were impressed with Nubes’ safety precautions (temperature taking, hand sanitizer, face masks, table distancing). But due to diminished capacity and visitorship, instead of offering three different types of tastings, they are down to just a single tasting of four wines: a white, a rose, and two reds. We love their wines, and we adore the view. Oscar, our server, was very attentive and ensured that we wrapped things up in time to roll down the hill.

Las Nubes’ socially-distanced tasting patio.

El Cielo – one of the (if not THE) most extensive winery complexes in the Valle – is a neighbor to El Corcho Rosa. Nothing against El Cielo, but personally I do not visit the Valle to patronize such a megafacility. I call El Cielo “Temeculized.”

In stark contrast, Valle Girl’s rustic but fun tasting room stands about one mile west of El Cielo. With a warm welcome by Sitara, dirt floors, eclectic decor and a smattering of tables in a couple of tasting areas, we felt right at home. And, there were misters to help beat the heat!

We shared a communal table with some fun fellow wine and cheese lovers. Lola and Aracely of Perma Farms, a farm/sanctuary with 250 free range animals, brought their cheeses and explained each variety as they were served. And Sitara or her lovely daughter, Ava, introduced each of the wines.

Aracely and Lola of Perma Farms provided ample servings of their cheese.

Valle Girl founder and CEO Sitara Monica Perez.

Valle Girl president and sommelier Ava Carolina Perez, a true dama tatuada!

Here’s the lineup of pairings we enjoyed:

  1. La Chula dry Moscato served with queso panela
  2. La Traviesa Provence-style rosé with air-dried jalapeño cheese
  3. La Chula Vin Gris with chilipitin-flavored cheese
  4. La Traviesa South Rhone-style Grenache rosé with Monterey jack
  5. La Traviesa South Rhone-style Syrah rosé (which tastes like a watermelon Jolly Rancher) with mozzarella
  6. La Dama Tatuada (translation: the tattooed lady), a 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon with touches of Syrah & Grenache paired with aged queso oreado
  7. La Vaquera Grenache with a touch of Cabernet and Syrah with queso Oaxaca
  8. A bonus (but much appreciated!) pairing of Moscato/Grenache Blanc (not even labeled yet!) with queso fresco

Well, we really weren’t socially-distanced, but all worked out.

We were served SO much cheese, we had to take some home in a doggy bag. It was a fun (and filling) event! Next time, we hope to visit El Corcho Rosa on a Saturday afternoon, when there is live music. To quote Valle Girl’s slogan, Vaya Con Vino!

Gracias por photos by Bob Gove.

 

Coronavirus Casualties

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Sad but true: all our beloved Baja food and wine festivals have been canceled this year. The list stretches from the Festival de las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo (originally scheduled for early May) all the way to the big Valle Food and Wine Festival (planned for early October). In addition, the many 30th annual Vendimia events, including our favorite Concurso de Paella, did not take place, nor will the lovely Sabor de Baja, which was slated for next Wednesday. 

A bright spot is this Sunday’s wine and artisanal cheese pairing at Valle Girl Vino’s El Corcho Rosa. According to CEO/winemaker Sitara Monica Perez, there will be seven different pairings, all with handcrafted cheeses from Perma Farm near Tecate. The event is a reasonable $30 per person, and I have been warned there will be so much cheese served, I should bring a doggy bag! Click here for more information. To make a reservation for this event, which kicks off at 2pm this Sunday, email sitara.perez@gmail.com.


Back to Baja . . . for one weekend!

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Hola, Baja Buffs! I hope everyone is doing well, staying safe and healthy. Reporting on our recent quick trip to Rosarito and Valle de Guadalupe. Although the border is still “closed,” we had no problem crossing south. We had a great breakfast at Rosarito’s La Estancia, not as busy as usual. I had received word from Kris Magnussen Shute of Vinos Lechuza that they (and several other Valle wineries) had just been given the green light to re-open, albeit in a limited capacity and with a number of safety measures. So, in the name of research, we had to check out re-opening weekend, right?

On our way to the Valle, we stopped at the Puerta Al Valle Farmers’ Market, on the free road just outside of La Mision. It wasn’t big (maybe six or eight vendors), but we enjoyed visiting with Bart Berry and purchased a packet of his The Baja Gourmet smoked yellowtail. Delicious! We also bought some chowder from another vendor.

Bart Berry has smoked yellowtail, smoked cheeses, New York steaks on Saturdays at PAV.

We had intended to stop at Las Nubes, but didn’t want to be late for our Lechuza reservation. Upon arriving at Lechuza, we were very impressed with the safety precautions being taken by the staff. There was a quick process at check-in, and all staff members were wearing masks and face shields. All visitors were seated outside, and social distancing was in place. 

Adam and Kris at Vinos Lechuza.

We love the friendly ambiance at Lechuza, and we love their wines! Although we gravitate toward reds (their Amantes blend is our fave), we enjoyed their new white wine, Vuelo, a blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Chardonnay. It’s fantastic to see Adam and Kris carry on the tradition of her dad, Ray Magnussen, who founded Lechuza with his wife, Patty, but sadly suddenly passed away three years ago.

Our cute little socially distanced table at Lechuza.

Leaving Lechuza, we journeyed west and stopped at Corona del Valle. We knew they were open and we love their Tempranillo Nebbiolo! We were also impressed with their safety precautions. Again, we sat outside, and social distancing was being practiced.

Other folks enjoying the afternoon at Corona del Valle.

Corona DID require us to order some food with our tasting, so we happily shared a yummy ceviche, the perfect afternoon snack.

According to Comite Provino BC, these additional Baja wineries have reopened: Alximia, Casta de Vinos, Decantos, Emevé, Hacienda Guadalupe, MD Vinos, Relieve, Rondo del Valle, Solar Fortun, Vinicola Regional de Ensenada, Vinos Pijoan, Viña de Frannes, Viña de Liceaga, Viña Emiliana, and Las Nubes.

On our way back, we stopped to visit the cabinet shop/home of friend Gary Stafford, who shook up delicious martinis. Unfortunately, Gary has just tested coronavirus positive; he believes he became infected the weekend AFTER we visited him. We wish Gary the best in getting better soon! Then on to dinner at Tapanco (I love their salsa and their mariscos en alumino), and Sunday breakfast at Los Pelícanos, which was doing boom business.

Again, we were very impressed with the safety precautions in place at every venue we visited, with face masks, face shields, temperature-taking and more. And we had no problem crossing back into the U.S. on Sunday.

Read this interesting article, also published in Sunday’s The San Diego Union-Tribune. Hopefully, there will not be a big resurgence of COVID-19 cases in weeks to come, and we can get back to what we do best . . . regularly eating and drinking in Baja!

P.S. A quick update from Baja Sur: the Scorpion Bay Hotel is now open! Reportedly, their remote, tiny town of San Juanico had been completely closed. So, it’s good to hear that news, as it is a lovely property run by a wonderful family.

Gracias por photos by Bob Gove.